How to Change Brake Pads on a 2013 Honda CRF80F Dirt Bike

How to Change Brake Pads on a 2013 Honda CRF80F

Quick overview – what you're working on

The 2013 Honda CRF80F is a youth trail/motocross-style dirt bike that uses a hydraulic disc brake system front and rear on many setups. That system includes a lever or pedal, master cylinder, hydraulic brake line, brake caliper, brake pads, and a steel rotor. When you squeeze the lever or press the pedal hydraulic pressure pushes the caliper pistons and forces the pads against the rotor to slow the bike.

When to replace brake pads on a CRF80F

• Reduced braking power or longer stopping distance
• Squealing, squeaking, or grinding noises when braking
• Excessive lever or pedal travel before engagement
• Visible pad material worn thin – less than 1.5-2.0 mm friction material
• Blueing or heat discoloration on the rotor surface

Inspect pads regularly, especially after muddy rides, extended trail sessions, or heavy braking in motocross practice. Riding conditions and engine displacement influence braking demand; the CRF80F's small-displacement engine still benefits from fresh pads for predictable control in tight trail situations.

What you'll need

• New brake pads matched to 2013 Honda CRF80F
• Socket set and open-end wrenches
• Pliers or snap-ring pliers (for retaining clip)
• Flat-head screwdriver or pry tool
• Clean rag and isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner
• Small C-clamp or piston-compression tool (or channel-lock pliers with care)
• Torque or inch-pound driver (recommended for axle torque)
• Bike stand or sturdy block to support the bike

Step-by-step – changing the brake pads

These steps assume basic mechanical ability and common garage tools. The order can vary slightly depending on whether you remove the wheel first or work with the caliper in place.

1. Prepare the bike and workspace

• Put the bike on a stable stand so the wheel is off the ground or easily removable. Work on a level surface with good light.
• Gather tools and lay out a clean rag to keep parts organized.

2. Remove the wheel if needed

For the CRF80F, removing the front or rear wheel can make pad access much easier. Loosen axle nuts, remove cotter pins if present, and slide the axle out. Lift the wheel clear and rest it aside.

3. Remove the retaining pin or clip

• Locate the caliper and find the pad-retaining pin or spring clip. Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove the clip, then slide out the pin.
• If the pin is secured with a cotter or retaining spring, save hardware for reuse unless you are replacing it.

4. Slide out the old pads

Pull the worn pads straight out of the caliper. Note the orientation — which pad faces the piston and which faces the outside. Inspect pad backing plates and pad material to gauge wear pattern.

5. Inspect rotor & caliper

• Check the rotor surface for deep scoring, grooving, or blue discoloration. Light surface rust can be cleaned; severe scoring may require rotor replacement.
• Look for brake fluid leaks around the caliper and lines. Wipe the area clean and note any seepage.
• Ensure caliper slides or guide pins move freely. Clean debris from the caliper bracket with a rag and brake cleaner.

6. Compress the caliper piston(s)

Before installing new, thicker pads you must push the pistons back into the caliper. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap to relieve pressure and monitor fluid level. Use a C-clamp or dedicated piston tool to slowly compress the piston(s) evenly until flush. Be careful not to damage piston seals. If the fluid level rises too high in the reservoir, remove excess with a syringe or rag.

7. Install the new brake pads

• Slide the new pads into the caliper in the same orientation as the old ones. Some pads include anti-squeal shims or clips – install as supplied.
• Reinsert the retaining pin and secure the spring clip or cotter. Ensure the pin is fully seated and the clip cannot work loose.

8. Reinstall the wheel and torque hardware

Mount the wheel back into the forks or swingarm. Slide the axle through, align spacers, and tighten axle nuts to the specified tightness. If you don't have a torque wrench, make sure hardware is snug and secure; test for wheel play before lowering the bike.

9. Restore hydraulic pressure

• With the bike on the ground and the wheel contacting the ground, pump the brake lever or pedal several times until you feel firm pressure. This seats the pads against the rotor and returns the lever to normal position.
• Check brake fluid level in the reservoir and top if necessary.

Helpful inspection tips while you're in there

• Measure rotor thickness if you have calipers – too-thin rotors wear quickly and reduce heat capacity.
• Ensure caliper slides are lubricated with a little high-temp grease on the guide pins — do not get grease on pad surfaces or rotor.
• Check that the retaining pin and clip are not bent or worn; replace if they show play.
• Spin the wheel to verify the pad does not drag when brakes are released; a slight drag can mean a seized slide or piston.

Bedding in new pads

New pads require a short bedding procedure to transfer an even friction layer to the rotor. Accelerate to a moderate speed on a safe stretch, then perform 6-8 progressively firmer stops from walking pace up to a modest speed – avoid emergency stops. Allow a short cool-down between repeated stops. This produces consistent braking performance and reduces glaze or squeal.

Final checks – ready to ride

• Confirm firm lever/pedal feel and immediate braking response.
• Re-inspect for fluid leaks after the first ride and recheck axle hardware.
• Listen for unusual noises; a small break-in noise is normal during bedding.

Changing the pads on your 2013 Honda CRF80F is a straightforward garage job that keeps braking consistent and the ride safe. Regular inspection after muddy or hard-use sessions will extend component life and maintain confidence on trails and tracks.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2013 Honda CRF80F Dirt Bike.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CRF80F Dirt Bike.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.