How to Change Brake Pads on a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike
Shop parts for a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.Quick brake system overview
On most modern dirt bikes – and for the purposes of this guide when working on a 1989 Honda Z50 – braking is handled by a hydraulic disc brake system: brake lever or pedal, master cylinder, hydraulic line, caliper, pads and a steel rotor. When you pull the lever or press the pedal the master cylinder builds hydraulic pressure that pushes the caliper pistons, forcing the pads against the rotor to slow the bike.
When to replace pads & why it matters
- Reduced braking power – longer stopping distances or a soft lever/pedal.
- Squealing, grinding or metal-on-metal noises.
- Excessive lever or pedal travel before the brakes bite.
- Visible pad material worn thin – little or no friction material left.
- Heat discoloration or scoring on the rotor.
Keeping pads in good shape preserves stopping power, rider control and prevents costly rotor damage. Inspect pads regularly, especially after muddy rides, long trail sessions, or if you ride in wet conditions.
Tools & parts you'll need
- New brake pads sized for a 1989 Honda Z50
- Socket set or wrenches (usually 8-14 mm common)
- Pliers or snap-ring tool for retaining clips
- Flat-blade screwdriver or caliper spreader
- Clean shop rags and brake cleaner (or isopropyl alcohol)
- Rubber gloves
- Bike stand or center stand
- Torque wrench (recommended for axle/nut torque)
Step-by-step – how to change the brake pads
- Prepare the bike and workspace. Park on level ground, warm the brakes with a short ride then let them cool. Secure the bike on a stand so the wheel can spin freely.
- Assess whether to remove the wheel. Some caliper designs on small bikes let you change pads with the wheel in place; others are easier with the wheel removed. If the retaining pin is obstructed, remove the wheel first.
- Remove the caliper retaining hardware. Locate the pad retaining pin or clip. Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove the clip, then slide the pin out. Keep hardware organized for reinstallation.
- Slide old pads out. Pull the pads straight out of the caliper bracket. Note any shims or anti-rattle pieces and how they sit so you can reinstall them the same way.
- Inspect rotor & caliper. Look for scoring, deep grooves or heat coloration on the rotor. Check the caliper bore and piston face for contamination or heavy corrosion. Remove dirt, mud and old pad dust with brake cleaner and a rag.
- Compress the caliper piston(s). With the caliper supported and the brake reservoir cap closed or covered, use a flat screwdriver or caliper spreader to gently push the piston(s) back into the bore until there's room for the new, thicker pads. Take care not to damage the piston seal or allow fluid to overflow the reservoir.
- Install new pads. Fit any shims or springs onto the pads as they were on the old set, then slide the new pads into the caliper. Ensure they seat fully and align with the rotor slot.
- Reinstall the retaining pin/clip. Replace the pin and secure the clip or cotter pin. Confirm the hardware is properly seated and won't back out during use.
- Reinstall wheel if removed. Refit the axle and tighten to the specified torque. Spin the wheel to confirm it floats freely without rubbing excessive against the pads.
- Restore hydraulic pressure. With the bike upright, pump the brake lever or pedal several times until firm. This pushes the pads into contact with the rotor and restores normal pedal height. Check the reservoir fluid level and top off if needed.
- Final checks. Re-check retaining hardware, axle nuts and that the caliper can slide freely on its mounting bolts. Test the brake lever feel before riding.
Helpful inspection tips while you're in there
- Measure rotor thickness – thin rotors should be replaced rather than trying to save worn pads.
- Look for fluid leaks around the caliper seals or banjo fittings; any leaks need attention.
- Confirm caliper slide pins move freely; seized slides cause uneven pad wear.
- Remove hardened mud or embedded grit from the caliper bracket and pad retaining area to prevent accelerated pad wear.
- Check pads for glazing, uneven wear or contamination from oil/grease; contaminated pads should be replaced.
Bedding in new pads
Proper bedding helps the new pads transfer a smooth, even layer of friction material onto the rotor. Do a series of controlled stops from low speed to moderate speed – about 8 to 10 gradual stops with a little cooling time between runs. Avoid hard emergency stops for the first few miles to allow materials to mate correctly.
Notes specific to a 1989 Honda Z50
The 1989 Honda Z50 is a lightweight youth-design bike; braking demands are lower than larger motocross or enduro bikes, but good pad condition is still critical for control. While many modern dirt bikes use hydraulic disc brakes with calipers squeezing pads against rotors, brake component size and mounting detail can vary across small bikes and later generations. If your Z50 has a particular caliper layout or rotor size from its era, adapt the step order as needed so you don't force components.
Wrap-up
Changing brake pads on a 1989 Honda Z50 is straightforward with basic tools and a bit of patience: remove retaining hardware, swap pads, compress pistons, and restore hydraulic pressure. Do the inspection checks while the caliper is open and bed the pads properly before riding hard. Regular pad checks keep brakes predictable and riding safe.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Pads for a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Rotors for a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Lines for a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Tools for a 1989 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.