How to Change Brake Pads on a 1979 Honda Z50

Shop parts for a 1979 Honda Z50 Dirt Bike.

Why keeping the Z50 braking system fresh matters

Good brakes are essential for control and confidence on any dirt bike. The 1979 Honda Z50, a lightweight youth/trail minibike with modest engine displacement, still demands reliable stopping power because its low mass and tight handling mean a small loss of braking can change how the bike corners or halts. Most modern dirt bikes, including the 1979 Honda Z50 when fitted with disc setups, use hydraulic disc brakes – a brake lever or pedal pressurizes fluid in a master cylinder, which pushes caliper pistons and forces brake pads against a steel rotor to slow the wheel.

Quick brake system overview

  • Brake lever or pedal – actuates the master cylinder.
  • Master cylinder & hydraulic line – creates and transmits pressure.
  • Brake caliper – houses pistons and brake pads.
  • Brake pads & retaining pins/clips – pad material that contacts the rotor.
  • Brake rotor (disc) – steel disc clamped by the pads to create braking force.

When to replace pads – signs to watch for

  • Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances.
  • Squealing, scraping, or grinding noises when you apply the brake.
  • Excessive lever or pedal travel before the brakes bite.
  • Visible pad backing plate or pad material worn thin on inspection.
  • Heat discoloration, scoring, or blueing on the rotor surface.

Inspect pads after muddy rides, long sessions, or any ride where you felt reduced braking performance.

Tools & prep

  • Basic hand tools: sockets, wrenches, needle-nose pliers, flat screwdriver.
  • A bench or motorcycle stand to support the bike securely.
  • Clean rags, isopropyl alcohol, and a small wire brush or toothbrush.
  • New brake pads sized for a 1979 Honda Z50 (confirm fitment) and any small retaining clips or pins if the originals are worn.

Step-by-step: Changing brake pads on your 1979 Honda Z50

  1. Prepare the bike and workspace: Park on a level surface, block the rear wheel (if working the front), and remove loose tools. Have rags ready to catch any grime.
  2. Support the bike: Use a center stand, small motorcycle stand, or lift so the wheel youre servicing can rotate freely. Ensure stability before working under the bike.
  3. Decide if the wheel needs removal: On many Z50 caliper designs you can change pads with the wheel in place; if the caliper blocks access to the retaining pin or pads, remove the wheel following axle and spacer removal procedures for your bike so the caliper is freer to work on.
  4. Locate and remove the retaining hardware: Find the pad retaining pin or clip. Use pliers or a punch to remove the clip, then slide out the pin. Keep parts in order so reassembly is straightforward.
  5. Slide old pads out: Pull the pads free of the caliper. Take note of any shims or anti-rattle pieces and their orientation. If pads are seized, work them out gently with a pry tool, avoiding damage to the caliper.
  6. Inspect the caliper and rotor: Look for scoring, corrosion, or embedded debris. Clean the caliper mount, guide pins, and pad slots with a brush and rag. Check for fluid leaks around the piston area.
  7. Compress the caliper piston(s): Use a clean block of wood or a piston tool to push the caliper piston(s) back into their bores slowly. Do this evenly to avoid tilting the piston – stopping periodically if resistance builds. If your Z50 uses a single piston, push straight; if multiple pistons, compress evenly on both sides.
  8. Install new pads: Place any new shims or anti-rattle clips in the same orientation as the originals. Slide the new pads into the caliper so the friction material faces the rotor and the backing plates align with the caliper slot.
  9. Reinstall retaining pin/clip: Insert the pad pin and secure it with the retaining clip or cotter pin. Ensure it rides smooth and the pads are held firmly but can move slightly on the guide surface as designed.
  10. Reinstall the wheel (if removed): Refit axle, spacers, and torque hardware to snug fit. Spin the wheel to ensure it turns freely with the pads seated and without rubbing when the brake is not applied.
  11. Restore hydraulic pressure: With the engine off, squeeze the brake lever or press the pedal several times until firm. This pumps the pads outward to contact the rotor. You may need to do this gradually as the caliper pistons seat against the new thicker pad faces.
  12. Final check: Ensure retaining hardware is secure, brake lever has good feel, and there are no fluid leaks. Test the bike slowly in a safe area to confirm braking performance.

Helpful inspection tips while youre in there

  • Rotor condition – check for deep grooves, warping, or excessive thinning; light scoring is common but deep cuts may warrant rotor service.
  • Brake fluid – look for wetness or dark fluid trails near the caliper or master cylinder; this could indicate a leak needing attention.
  • Caliper movement – ensure sliding caliper designs move freely on their pins; clean and lightly lubricate with brake-specific grease where the manufacturer permits.
  • Cleanliness – remove mud, sand, and old pad material from the caliper bracket and rotor edge to prevent accelerated wear.
  • Retaining hardware – make sure pins and clips are straight, not bent, and seat fully to prevent pad rattle or loss.

Bedding in new pads

After installation, bed the pads with a series of controlled stops: accelerate to low-moderate speed and apply the brake progressively to slow to walking pace, repeating 6-10 times without locking the wheel. Allow the brakes to cool between aggressive stops. Proper bedding helps transfer an even layer of pad material to the rotor for consistent bite and longer pad life.

Notes on Z50 braking setups and updates

The 1979 Honda Z50 is part of the minibike/young-rider category where braking demand is light compared to larger enduro or motocross bikes. Many modern dirt bikes – and Z50 owners who upgrade components – use hydraulic disc brakes with variations in rotor size or caliper design over the years. If your Z50 has nonstandard or aftermarket calipers and rotors, the procedures above still apply but the fastener types and piston arrangement may differ slightly.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.