How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2017 Suzuki King Quad 400FSi 4X4 AUTO
Shop parts for a 2017 SUZUKI KINGQD4FSI ATV.
This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you through safely flushing and replacing the brake fluid on a 2017 Suzuki King Quad 400FSi 4X4 AUTO. Follow the steps below exactly, use proper tools and fresh brake fluid, and only proceed if you are comfortable working on hydraulic systems. If in doubt, contact a certified technician.
What you need
- Brake fluid specified by Suzuki (see owner’s manual). Use DOT grade recommended by manufacturer; if unsure, DOT 4 is commonly used but verify before starting.
- Clear tubing (fits bleeder nipple) and a clean catch bottle
- Brake bleeder wrench or correct-size open-end wrench
- Suction or vacuum bleeder (optional but speeds the job)
- Clean rags, gloves, eye protection
- Jack and stands or ramps (if needed for access)
- Disposable funnel and small filter or screen (to keep master cylinder clean)
- Torque wrench (for caliper/bleeder hardware if required)
Model-specific notes for the 2017 King Quad 400FSi
- The King Quad 400FSi uses hydraulic disc brakes front and rear; there is a single master cylinder feeding both circuits. Confirm reservoir location on the right-hand front frame area and note the level window or cap marking.
- This model is an automatic CVT with 4X4 selectable drive. When bleeding brakes, ensure vehicle is in park with engine off and parking brake applied (if equipped) to prevent accidental movement.
- ABS is not present on this model year King Quad 400FSi. That simplifies bleeding sequence versus ABS-equipped units, but avoid introducing air into the system by keeping the master cylinder topped up throughout the procedure.
- Use only fresh, unopened brake fluid and avoid spillage on painted plastics or finishes — brake fluid can damage surfaces.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, and remove the key. Block wheels for safety.
- Clean around the master cylinder cap and reservoir to prevent contamination. Remove cap and diaphragm; keep the reservoir open only as long as necessary.
- Inspect calipers, lines and hoses for leaks or damage. Replace any suspect parts before bleeding.
- Identify the bleeder nipples on each caliper. Typical layout: bleed furthest wheel from master cylinder first, then next furthest, ending with the nearest. For this King Quad that generally means: rear passenger-side, rear driver-side, front passenger-side, front driver-side. Confirm orientation visually before starting.
Step-by-step: Full system flush and bleed
- Top the reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the MAX mark. Keep the cap loosely in place to minimize contamination.
- Attach clear tubing to the first bleeder nipple and run it into the catch bottle partially filled with a small amount of fresh fluid to prevent air re-entry. Ensure a tight fit on the nipple.
- One-person method (vacuum bleeder): Attach vacuum bleeder at the master cylinder or at the bleeder nipple per tool instructions. Pump the vacuum and open the bleeder nipple 1/4 turn. Allow old fluid and air to draw into the bottle until clear, then close nipple. Repeat until fluid runs clear with no bubbles. Move to the next wheel following the sequence above. Keep reservoir topped between wheels.
- Two-person method (helper pumps): With tubing attached, have your helper sit in the driver/seat area and slowly depress the brake pedal several times then hold it down. Open the bleeder nipple about 1/4 turn until fluid flows into the tubing and air bubbles stop. Close nipple, then have helper release the pedal. Repeat until no air is present. Keep reservoir topped. Move to the next wheel.
- Work systematically: start with the furthest caliper, finish with the nearest to the master cylinder. Confirm no air remains and fluid is clear at each wheel before moving on.
- When all wheels are bled, refill the reservoir to the proper level, reinstall diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid immediately.
- Pump the brake pedal with the engine off; pedal should feel firm. If it feels spongy, re-bleed the system and check for leaks.
- Tighten bleeder nipples to specified torque if available, or snug firmly. Re-inspect lines, calipers and fittings for leaks during a short test ride at low speed.
Tips & maintenance reminders
- Always use the brake fluid type recommended by Suzuki. Mixing incompatible fluids can damage seals.
- Replace rubber parts (banjo washers, caliper seals) if they are old or leaking. Contaminated or degraded hoses should be replaced rather than bled through.
- Dispose of used brake fluid properly per local regulations; never reuse old fluid.
- If you removed wheels or calipers for access, torque wheel and caliper fasteners to factory specs and re-check after test ride.
- Bleed more than once if you recently replaced hoses or calipers to ensure all air is purged.
Troubleshooting
- Spongy pedal after proper bleeding: check master cylinder internal leak, collapsed hose, or remaining air; consider bench-bleeding the master cylinder.
- Brake drag after bleeding: check caliper slide pins, stuck pistons, or overfilled reservoir causing pressure buildup; correct as needed.
- Continuous bubbling at bleeder: look for leaks or a bad master cylinder admitting air into the system.
Perform a cautious low-speed test in a safe area to verify braking performance before normal riding. If brakes do not respond correctly after bleeding and inspection, stop and have the ATV serviced by a professional.
Related Shopping Categories
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
