How to bleed and replace brake fluid on a 2017 Can-Am Renegade 1000R
Shop parts for a 2017 CAN_AM REN1000R ATV.
The following MotoSport proprietary guide walks you through safely draining, flushing, and bleeding the brake system on a 2017 Can-Am Renegade 1000R. This procedure covers full fluid replacement from reservoir to calipers, recommended tools and fluids, common model-specific notes, and troubleshooting tips. Read fully before starting and work in a well-ventilated, clean area.
What you need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (new, unopened)
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers
- Clear plastic tubing to fit bleed nipples
- Brake bleed catch bottle or jar
- Vacuum bleed pump or one- or two-person helper
- Clean rags, brake cleaner, gloves, eye protection
- Plastic disposable funnel and a clean container for old fluid
- Torque wrench (for reassembly where applicable)
Model notes & safety reminders for the 2017 Renegade 1000R
- The Renegade 1000R uses DOT 4 brake fluid; do not mix with DOT 3 or DOT 5 (silicone).
- Reservoir location: master cylinder reservoir is on the right handlebar for front brakes and a separate reservoir or combined circuit for rear depending on trim. Confirm your machine layout visually before starting.
- Brake fluid is hygroscopic — it absorbs moisture. Replace every 1-2 years or sooner if performance degrades.
- Brake lines and banjo fittings are aluminum/steel and use crush washers. Replace crush washers if disturbed and torque fittings per the service manual. If you lack exact torque specs, snug then back off slightly; avoid overtightening aluminum fittings.
- Work with engine off, parking brake engaged, and wheels chocked. Use gloves & eye protection; brake fluid damages paint & plastics.
Preparation
- Wash the area around the reservoir cap and bleed nipples to avoid contamination.
- Raise the ATV so wheels hang freely if possible. This helps air escape to the top of the system.
- Remove reservoir cap and diaphragm, and top up with fresh DOT 4. Keep the cap loosely on to limit contamination while allowing venting.
- Locate bleed nipples: front calipers (left & right) and rear caliper. If your model has a hydraulic parking brake or integrated ABS, note it and consult the service manual for ABS-specific procedures.
Bleeding sequence
Use the outermost-to-innermost sequence relative to the master cylinder. For most Renegade setups do the following sequence: far front caliper, near front caliper, then rear caliper. If in doubt, follow the actual plumbing route from reservoir to calipers.
Two-person pump method (recommended for best control)
- Attach clear tubing to the bleed nipple and place the other end into your catch bottle partially filled with clean brake fluid to avoid air reintroduction.
- Helper slowly depresses brake lever/pedal 3-4 times and holds pressure.
- Open the bleed nipple about 1/4 turn. Fluid & air will flow into the bottle. Close the nipple before the helper releases the lever/pedal to avoid sucking air back in.
- Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out and pedal/lever feel is firm. Keep reservoir topped to prevent air entry into the master cylinder.
- Move to the next caliper and repeat the process. Finish by bleeding the caliper closest to the master cylinder last.
Vacuum or pressure bleeder method
- Connect vacuum pump to the bleed nipple or attach a pressure bleeder to the reservoir per the tool instructions.
- Pump until clean fluid flows with no bubbles. Monitor reservoir level closely and top up as needed to prevent drawing air into the master cylinder.
- Repeat for each caliper in sequence.
Gravity bleed (slow but low-effort)
- Attach tubing to bleed nipple and let it drain slowly into a jar. Gravity bleeding can take a long time but will remove most air if the reservoir is kept full and the machine is positioned so air can travel to the calipers.
After bleeding
- Top reservoir to the correct level, reinstall diaphragm & cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid.
- Pump the brake lever/pedal with the engine off to confirm a firm feel. If spongy, re-bleed the circuit showing issues.
- Check for leaks at bleed nipples, banjo bolts, and lines. If you opened banjo fittings, replace crush washers and tighten to the service manual torque where available.
- Dispose of old brake fluid per local hazardous-waste regulations. Do not reuse.
- Test-ride slowly in a controlled area to confirm braking performance before full use.
Troubleshooting & tips
- Persistent soft lever/pedal after bleeding usually indicates trapped air, contaminated master cylinder, or a leak. Re-bleed and inspect for leaks.
- If a caliper will not bleed clear, remove the caliper and bench-bleed it or have the caliper rebuilt. Sticky caliper pistons can trap air and fluid.
- ABS or combined-brake systems can require specific procedures or scan-tool cycles. If your Renegade has ABS hardware, consult a dealer or the factory service manual for ABS bleed steps.
- Keep all brake lines routed and fastened exactly as OEM to avoid chafing or stretching when suspension cycles.
Maintenance schedule suggestion
- Brake fluid condition check annually; full fluid replacement every 1-2 years under normal conditions.
- Inspect lines, fittings, pads & rotors each season and after heavy use.
Performing a full fluid replacement and bleed restores braking power & prolongs component life. If you encounter unusual resistance, persistent air, or ABS warnings, schedule professional service.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2017 CAN_AM REN1000R ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2017 CAN_AM REN1000R ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2017 CAN_AM REN1000R ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2017 CAN_AM REN1000R ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2017 CAN_AM REN1000R ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.