How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS
Shop parts for a 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS ATV.
This MotoSport-exclusive guide walks you through flushing and bleeding the brake system on the 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS (MMY code GRIZZLY7E). It covers tools, safety, the proper sequence for the ATV's separate front and rear master cylinders, recommended fluid, and model-specific notes to keep your Grizzly stopping strong.
What you need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (Yamaha recommends DOT 4; do not mix with DOT 5 silicone)
- Clear tubing and a catch bottle
- Brake bleeder wrench or 8-10 mm open wrench (verify bleeder size visually)
- Turkey-baster or fluid syringe (for removing old fluid from reservoirs)
- Brake cleaner, rags, gloves, eye protection
- Optional: hand vacuum/pressure bleeder or vacuum pump for faster, cleaner bleeding
- Torque wrench for caliper/bleeder hardware if reusing bolts
Safety & prep
- Work on a level surface, engine off, key removed, parking brake applied.
- Protect painted surfaces from spilled fluid – DOT fluid will damage paint. Use rags and cardboard.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Dispose of used fluid responsibly.
- Identify the two separate systems: front brakes (handlebar master cylinder/reservoir) and rear brake (pedal master cylinder/reservoir). They do not share fluid.
Reservoir locations & model notes
- Front master cylinder and reservoir are on the right handlebar. The reservoir uses a diaphragm cap with level marks; do not let it run dry during bleeding.
- Rear master cylinder and reservoir are mounted near the right rear fender/engine area where the pedal linkage connects. It is separate from the front and must be serviced independently.
- The 2014 Grizzly 700 EPS may have dual front calipers (left & right) and a single rear caliper. Bleed each caliper for its respective system.
- ABS versions are not common on this model year; if your machine has additional hydraulic modules, consult a dealer for system-specific steps. This guide assumes standard hydraulic calipers.
Step-by-step – general bleed method (recommended)
Follow these steps for each system separately (front system first, then rear, or vice versa). Always keep the reservoir topped up with fresh DOT 4 fluid during the process.
- Clean the reservoir cap area. Remove cap and diaphragm, then remove old fluid using a turkey-baster or syringe until most dark fluid is removed. Do not contaminate with dirt.
- Refill the reservoir with new DOT 4 fluid to the maximum mark. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap loosely so you can access it while bleeding.
- Start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. For the front master cylinder (handlebar), that is typically the right or left caliper depending on plumbing — visually identify which caliper is furthest along the brake hose routing and start there. For the rear master cylinder, there is usually one rear caliper so start there.
- Attach clear tubing to the bleeder nipple and submerge the other end in a bottle partially filled with clean DOT 4 to prevent air backflow. Open the bleeder screw about a quarter turn.
- Have an assistant slowly pump the brake lever or pedal several times and then hold it. While it is held, open the bleeder screw to let fluid & air escape. Close the screw before the lever/pedal is released. Repeat until fluid runs clear with no bubbles. If using a pressure or vacuum bleeder, follow the tool instructions and watch for air-free fluid.
- Top off the reservoir frequently during bleeding. Never let it drop low enough to draw air into the master cylinder.
- Once the caliper produces clean, bubble-free fluid, tighten the bleeder to snug (do not over-torque). Wipe the area clean.
- Move to the next caliper according to the distance-from-master sequence and repeat steps 4-8 until all calipers for that master cylinder are bled.
- After bleeding the system, pump the lever/pedal to confirm firm feel. Check and adjust fluid to the proper level.
- Repeat the entire process for the other master cylinder (rear or front) so both systems have fresh fluid and no air.
Tips for a robust bleed
- Use a pressure bleeder for a one-person, cleaner job. Set pressure to the tool manufacturer's recommendations — do not exceed recommended pressure for the reservoir cap.
- If stubborn air remains, position the brake lever/pedal and rotate wheels to help dislodge trapped air pockets. Work slowly and keep the reservoir full.
- Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap seals if they're cracked or swollen. Contaminated caps can introduce air or dirt.
- Inspect brake lines, hose fittings, banjo bolts and caliper pistons for leaks or corrosion while bleeding. Replace any damaged parts before finishing.
- If the system still feels spongy after bleeding, inspect master cylinder seals for wear or internal bypass — master cylinder rebuild or replacement may be required.
Post-bleed checks
- Confirm pedal/lever firmness under load and with wheels installed. Take a cautious, low-speed test ride in a safe area.
- Check for any leaks at bleeder screws, hose fittings and banjo bolts after the test ride and re-torque if needed to manufacturer specifications.
- Properly dispose of old fluid & contaminated rags per local regulations.
Model-specific maintenance notes for the 2014 Grizzly 700
- Because the Grizzly uses two separate master cylinders, owners sometimes mistakenly drain one system thinking they drained both. Service each system separately and label reservoirs if needed.
- The handlebar reservoir is small & can draw air quickly during bleeding. Keep a second container of DOT 4 ready to top up frequently.
- EPS (electric power steering) models can put additional stress on front braking under hard use; inspect front caliper mounts and hardware for looseness during routine brake service.
- If you plan heavy trail use or towing, schedule brake fluid replacement every 1-2 years to avoid hygroscopic degradation of DOT 4 fluid and maintain boiling point — more frequently in wet/muddy climates.
When to call MotoSport tech support or a dealer
Contact a MotoSport technician or an authorized Yamaha dealer if you find persistent sponginess after multiple bleeds, internal master cylinder leakage, damaged caliper pistons, ABS/hydraulic-control concerns, or if you prefer factory torque/spec confirmation. Professional service is recommended if you lack the tools or an assistant for bleeding.
Performing a proper bleed and fluid change restores pedal/lever feel and braking performance. Follow the steps above, keep the reservoir full, and replace any worn components to keep your Grizzly 700 stopping safely.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.