How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2013 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4

Shop parts for a 2013 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive service guide walks you through safely flushing and bleeding the hydraulic brakes on a 2013 Yamaha Grizzly 350 4X4 (MMY). Follow every step carefully, use the correct fluid, protect painted surfaces, and test the system before riding.

Model notes — what Grizzly 350 owners should know

  • The 2013 Grizzly 350 4X4 uses a conventional hydraulic master cylinder and caliper set; there is no factory ABS system to complicate bleeding.
  • Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Replace every 1-2 years or sooner if moisture or contamination is suspected. Use DOT-specified brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 as recommended by Yamaha for this model) only.
  • Reservoirs are small and located under plastic covers near the handlebar (front) and on the rear brake housing. Keep caps clean to prevent contamination.
  • Rubber hoses and caliper seals on older Grizzlys can swell or crack. Inspect hoses, banjos, and bleeder screws for corrosion or leaks while servicing.
  • Brake lever and pedal free-play should be checked after bleeding; adjust as required per your manual or MotoSport service spec sheets.

Tools & supplies (MotoSport-recommended)

  • Fresh DOT-specified brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4).
  • Clear tubing that fits bleeder nipples and a catch bottle.
  • 9-11 mm wrench for bleeder nipples (verify nipple size visually).
  • Syringe or small fluid pump or vacuum bleeder (optional for one-person bleeding).
  • Clean rags, isopropyl alcohol, and small brush for cleaning.
  • Funnel or fluid transfer tool, nitrile gloves, safety glasses.
  • Torque wrench for banjo bolts if you remove lines (refer to service specs).
  • Jack or stands to raise wheels for wheel rotation during bleeding.

Preparation

  1. Park the ATV on a level surface, engage parking brake and put transmission in park/neutral. Remove the key.
  2. Remove any plastic covers blocking the master cylinder reservoirs and clean around caps to prevent dirt entering the system when opened.
  3. Protect paint and plastics with rags or tape. Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces.
  4. Raise wheels slightly so calipers and pistons can move freely; you don't need full lift, just enough to rotate wheels if needed.
  5. Locate front and rear reservoirs. Note which reservoir feeds which circuit (front lever reservoir for front calipers, rear pedal reservoir for rear caliper on most Grizzly 350s).

Step A Remove old fluid from reservoirs

  1. Open a reservoir cap and diaphragm carefully. Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir. Dispose of old fluid properly.
  2. Top the reservoir with fresh DOT-specified fluid to the recommended level. Keep the cap loosely on while bleeding to minimize air entry.

Step B Bleed sequence and general rules

Bleed the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first, then proceed to the next farthest, finishing with the closest. For many Grizzly 350 layouts the sequence is:

  • Rear caliper (farthest from front lever reservoir if front lever supplies front calipers).
  • Front calipers left then right (or farthest front caliper first depending on plumbing). If unsure, always start with the caliper that has the longest hydraulic line from the master cylinder.

Keep the reservoir topped with fresh fluid during the entire procedure to avoid drawing in air.

Step C Manual two-person bleed method (recommended for best results)

  1. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder nipple on the caliper and place the other end in a bottle partially filled with clean brake fluid to prevent air from being drawn back in.
  2. Have an assistant slowly pump the brake lever or pedal several times and then hold steady pressure. While they hold, open the bleeder nipple about 1/4 turn and allow fluid and bubbles to escape into the tubing until flow is steady and bubble-free. Close the nipple before the assistant releases the lever/pedal to avoid sucking air back in.
  3. Repeat the pump – open – close cycle until only clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Periodically check and refill the reservoir.
  4. Tighten the bleeder nipple to spec finger-tight plus a quarter turn; then torque to spec if known. Wipe any spilled fluid immediately.
  5. Move to the next caliper and repeat the process following the bleed sequence.

Step D One-person alternatives

  • Use a vacuum bleeder on each bleeder nipple while cycling the lever/pedal slowly to draw fluid out; keep reservoir topped.
  • Or use a syringe to push fresh fluid into the line from the caliper side (reverse flushing) if you can access both ends – be careful to avoid over-pressurizing seals.

Step E Final checks and settling

  1. When all calipers are clear of air, top reservoirs to the correct level, reinstall diaphragms and caps, and secure any plastic covers removed earlier.
  2. Pump the lever and press the pedal several times to confirm firm, consistent feel. If the lever feels spongy, there is still air in the system — repeat bleeding.
  3. Check bleeder nipples, banjo bolts and hose fittings for leaks. Torque banjo bolts to factory spec if they were loosened.
  4. Lower the ATV, test brakes at slow speed in a safe area, and verify proper operation before riding aggressively.

Inspection & maintenance tips specific to the 2013 Grizzly 350

  • Inspect caliper pistons for pitting or corrosion when bleeding; replace seals or calipers if pistons don't move smoothly.
  • Check master cylinder reservoir diaphragms for cracks or hardening. Replace if damaged to prevent contamination and pressure leaks.
  • Examine brake hose mounting points and banjo washers for leaks. Replace copper crush washers when removing banjo bolts.
  • If you find persistent sponginess after multiple bleeds, consider replacing the master cylinder seals or the brake hoses if they are soft or swollen internally.
  • Keep brake fluid sealed and store in a cool, dry place; don't reuse fluid once opened for long periods.

Safety and environmental notes

  • Brake fluid is toxic and corrosive to paint; clean spills immediately with water and isopropyl alcohol.
  • Dispose of old brake fluid at an appropriate hazardous waste facility.
  • Never reuse old fluid or mix incompatible fluid types. If changing fluid type (DOT 3 to DOT 4), flush the entire system thoroughly before filling with the new type.

Follow these steps and the Grizzly-specific checks to restore firm brake feel and reliable stopping performance. If you run into seized bleeder screws, badly corroded hose ends, or persistent air, stop and consult a qualified mechanic or MotoSport tech before riding.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.