How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT
Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
This factory-focused MotoSport guide walks you through safely replacing and bleeding the hydraulic brake fluid on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT. Follow each step, use the correct fluid, and inspect components so your Outlander stops predictably on trail and road.
What you need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (Can-Am specifies DOT 4 – do not use DOT 5 silicone)
- Clean catch bottle, clear plastic hose to fit bleed nipples
- Wrenches for bleed nipples (typically 8 mm) and reservoir cap
- Brake bleeder kit, vacuum pump, or handheld syringe
- Shop rags, nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Jack or stands to lift wheels (if desired), torque wrench
- New crush washers for caliper banjo bolts if removing lines
Model notes for the 2013 Outlander 800R XT
- Engine/mmy specifics: 800R Rotax V-twin powerplant – robust rear weight distribution affects braking feel.
- Brake layout: hydraulic disc brakes front and rear with separate calipers. The master cylinder reservoir is on the handlebar area for the front, with a separate reservoir/actuator for rear braking on many models — confirm your machine's layout before starting.
- ABS: some Outlander variants may have electronic braking aids. If your machine has ABS, consult dealer literature or MotoSport tech prior to bleeding — ABS systems can require scan-tool controlled bleed cycles.
- Use only DOT 4 and avoid contamination from engine oil, fork oil, or water — contamination softens seals and degrades braking.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, engine off, key removed. Stabilize the ATV on its center stand or secure jack stands.
- Clean the reservoir cap area thoroughly to prevent dirt entry. Remove cap and diaphragm to inspect fluid level & color. Old fluid is dark and should be replaced.
- Check service manual for reservoir capacity and bleed screw sizes. Have replacement crush washers available if you open banjo bolts.
- Wear gloves & eye protection. Brake fluid damages paint & plastics – cover bodywork and immediately wipe any spills with clean rags and water.
System drain & refill (recommended full replacement)
- Siphon as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible with a syringe or turkey baster. Refill with fresh DOT 4 to the MAX mark.
- Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and finish with the closest. Typical sequence for Outlander-style layouts: rear caliper, right front, left front. Confirm by visually tracing lines from reservoir to calipers on your machine.
- Attach clear hose to the bleed nipple and place the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to prevent air reintroduction.
- Have an assistant slowly pump the brake lever/pedal several times, then hold pressure. Open the bleed nipple about a half-turn until fluid and air bubbles flow. Close nipple, then release lever/pedal. Repeat until only clean fluid with no bubbles emerges.
- Keep reservoir topped up during the process — never let it run dry or air will be drawn into the system.
Using a vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder
- Vacuum: attach vacuum pump to bleed nipple, open nipple, and draw fluid until clean. Move to next wheel following the same farthest-to-closest sequence.
- Pressure bleeder: pressurize master cylinder reservoir per tool instructions and open bleed nipples in sequence until clear fluid exits. Monitor reservoir level continuously.
Finishing steps
- When each caliper is clear of air, close bleed nipples and torque to proper spec (light snug – typically low Nm; consult MotoSport tech or service manual for exact torque). Wipe down all fittings.
- Top the reservoir to the MAX mark, reinstall diaphragm and cap, and secure. Clean any spills.
- With engine off, cycle brakes several times to confirm firm lever/pedal feel. If spongy, repeat bleeding until firm.
- Lower the ATV, road- or trail-test at low speed to bed the fluid and confirm braking performance.
Inspection & maintenance notes
- Check brake hoses for cracking, chafing, or leaks. Replace any soft or swollen lines.
- Inspect pads and rotors for wear. Replace pads if thickness is near manufacturer minimums.
- If you removed banjo bolts, always use new crush washers and tighten to proper torque to prevent leaks.
- If ABS is present and fault codes appear after bleeding, an ABS-specific bleed procedure using a diagnostic tool may be required.
- Record date and mileage of fluid change. Brake fluid should be replaced every 1-2 years or sooner if discolored or contaminated.
Troubleshooting
- Persistent spongy pedal after thorough bleeding: re-check for leaks, a saturated master cylinder seal, or internal ABS faults.
- Air returns after a short ride: check reservoir cap seal and bleed nipple tightness.
- Brake drag after bleeding: ensure bleed nipples are fully closed and pads are properly retracting. Inspect caliper pistons for contamination or corrosion.
Performing a complete fluid replacement and careful bleeding restores brake performance and prevents component damage. When in doubt about ABS or complex electrical systems, request a dealer or qualified technician service to avoid introducing faults.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.