How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2013 Arctic Cat 550 CORE

Shop parts for a 2013 Arctic Cat 550 CORE ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive service guide walks you through bleeding and replacing the brake fluid on a 2013 Arctic Cat 550 CORE. Follow every step carefully for safe, reliable stopping power. Use manufacturer-recommended brake fluid – DOT 4 is commonly specified for this model; do not mix DOT 5 silicone fluid with DOT 3/4 fluids.

What you’ll need

  • Manufacturer-approved DOT brake fluid (new unopened bottle)
  • Clear hose and catch bottle or vacuum bleeder
  • Wrenches to fit bleed nipples (open-end or flare nut)
  • Clean rags, gloves, safety glasses
  • Brake cleaner and shop towels
  • Floor jack or ATV lift and stands (if wheels removal required)
  • Brake-fluid syringe or turkey baster (optional, for reservoir cleanout)
  • Torque wrench (for reassembly to spec)

Notes specific to the 2013 Arctic Cat 550 CORE

  • The 550 CORE typically has hydraulic disc brakes front and rear with bleed nipples on each caliper. Bleed nipples are accessible but may require removing wheel and splash guards on tight areas.
  • The master cylinder reservoir is mounted near the handlebar area. Keep the ATV level while topping the reservoir to avoid air pockets.
  • Some owners report tight access under plastic panels; remove panels or the wheel for safe access rather than forcing lines or fittings.
  • Use only fresh, unopened brake fluid – the 550 CORE’s system is sensitive to moisture contamination which reduces boiling point and braking performance.

Preparation

  1. Park the ATV on level ground. Chock wheels and put it in park/neutral with the engine off.
  2. Clean the master cylinder cap area thoroughly to prevent dirt falling into the reservoir when opened.
  3. Remove enough plastic panels or the wheel if needed for access to the bleed nipples on each caliper.
  4. Have fresh fluid ready and a sealed container for old fluid disposal. Brake fluid damages paint & plastics – wipe spills immediately.

Step-by-step bleeding & fluid replacement

Follow this sequence for the cleanest results: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the nearest caliper. If you’re unsure which is farthest, use the longest hydraulic line first.

  1. Remove the master cylinder cap and diaphragm. Siphon or extract most of the old fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster, but do not empty completely if the system has low clearance to avoid drawing air into the master cylinder.
  2. Top the reservoir with new brake fluid. Keep the cap off during bleeding but covered loosely to reduce contamination and splashing.
  3. Attach a clear hose to the bleed nipple on the farthest caliper and place the other end into a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid to avoid sucking air back. If using a vacuum bleeder, attach its hose to the nipple and set vacuum per tool instructions.
  4. Have an assistant pump the brake lever/pedal slowly several times and hold it depressed. Open the bleed nipple about 1/4 turn to let fluid/air out until flow is clear and bubble-free, then close the nipple before the assistant releases the lever. Repeat until only clean fluid flows.
  5. Keep the master reservoir topped between cycles to prevent air entering the system. Check frequently during the process.
  6. Repeat the process for each remaining caliper, moving from farthest to nearest to the master cylinder. For a two-circuit master cylinder (if equipped), bleed each circuit separately following the same farthest-to-nearest rule within that circuit.
  7. After all calipers are bled, check lever/pedal firmness. If spongy, repeat bleeding cycles or consider bench-bleeding the master cylinder if air remains trapped.
  8. Once satisfied, tighten bleed nipples to snug plus correct turn to manufacturer spec, clean any spilled fluid, refill the reservoir to the proper level, and reinstall cap and diaphragm securely.
  9. Reinstall any removed wheels or panels and torque wheel fasteners to spec. Lower the ATV and perform several slow stops to confirm braking performance before riding at speed.

Pro tips & troubleshooting

  • If the lever remains soft after thorough bleeding, the master cylinder may need bench-bleeding or replacement. Air trapped in the master cylinder is common after long system draws.
  • Inspect brake lines and fittings while you work. Cracked hoses or corroded fittings on an older 550 CORE should be replaced rather than repeatedly bleeding a leaking system.
  • Use a clear hose when bleeding to observe for micro-bubbles. Persistent bubbling indicates continued air entry or an internal leak.
  • Dispose of old brake fluid at an appropriate hazardous-waste facility – do not pour down drains.

Final checks

  • Confirm reservoir level and cap seal. Check for leaks at calipers, lines & master cylinder after a short test ride.
  • Verify pedal/lever travel is normal and brakes engage without grabbing or dragging. Re-torque any fasteners disturbed during service.
  • Record the fluid change date and mileage in your maintenance log. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time – plan to replace per your service interval or sooner in wet conditions.

Following this MotoSport guide ensures safe, consistent braking on your 2013 Arctic Cat 550 CORE. If you encounter persistent issues, seek professional brake service.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.