How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2012 Suzuki King Quad 500AXi 4X4 Power Steering

Shop parts for a 2012 SUZUKI KINGQD500P ATV.

This guide is MotoSport proprietary content tailored for the 2012 Suzuki King Quad 500AXi 4X4 Power Steering (MMY code KINGQD500P). Follow these steps carefully to flush and replace the brake fluid, restore firm pedal feel, and avoid damage to brake components.

What you need

  • Correct brake fluid as specified on your master cylinder cap – check cap for DOT rating (DOT 3 or DOT 4). Use only fresh, sealed fluid.
  • Clear tubing to fit bleed nipples, catch container, wrench for bleed nipples (typically 8mm or 10mm), wrench for reservoir cap, gloves, eye protection
  • Brake bleeder kit or vacuum pump (optional), box wrench or socket set, shop rags, torque wrench if you will remove calipers
  • Battery maintained at vehicle voltage if using ABS (if fitted) – see notes below

Model-specific notes for the 2012 King Quad 500AXi

  • The brake master cylinder reservoir is on the handlebar assembly for the front brakes and a separate reservoir or a combined system for the rear depending on factory configuration — inspect both reservoirs. Follow the printed DOT rating on the cap.
  • This model typically has hydraulic front and rear calipers with simple bleeder screws. There is no factory ABS on most King Quad 500AXi models, but confirm visually; if equipped with any ABS or electronic brake control, consult a dealer before bleeding.
  • Routing and distance determine bleeding order: always bleed from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first then progress to the closest. On most King Quad layouts that is rear right > rear left > front right > front left, but confirm which caliper is farthest from the reservoir on your bike before starting.
  • Brake fluid is hygroscopic — discard and replace completely if contaminated or dark. Never reuse drained fluid.

Safety first

  • Work on a stable, level surface with the engine off and key removed. Block wheels to prevent movement.
  • Wear gloves and eye protection. Brake fluid damages paint & plastics; clean spills immediately with water.
  • Dispose of used fluid in accordance with local regulations.

Step-by-step: complete flush and bleed

  1. Inspect system: check lines, hoses, calipers, and reservoir caps for leaks or cracked hoses. Replace any damaged components before bleeding.
  2. Clean the reservoir cap area, remove the cap, and cover the opening with a clean rag while you work. Remove any strainer or foam insert carefully and set aside.
  3. Top reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the specified level. Keep it topped during the entire procedure to avoid introducing air into the master cylinder.
  4. Identify bleed nipples at each caliper and fit clear tubing over the nipple outlet. Place the other end into a catch bottle partially filled with old fluid to prevent air from being drawn back in.
  5. Begin at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder. Have an assistant pump the brake lever/pedal several times and hold pressure, or use a vacuum bleeder on the nipple.
  6. While pressure is held, open the bleeder nipple 1/4 to 1/2 turn and allow fluid and air to flow into the tubing until flow slows. Close the nipple before the lever/pedal is released. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid flows and no air is seen in the tubing.
  7. Keep checking and topping the reservoir frequently. Never let the reservoir run low during bleeding.
  8. Move to the next farthest caliper and repeat the pump-hold-open cycle for each caliper in order until you reach the closest caliper to the master cylinder.
  9. After all calipers are bled, perform a final bench-bleed if desired or cycle the lever/pedal and check for firmness. If soft or spongey, repeat the bleeding sequence.
  10. When satisfied, tighten bleed nipples to spec snugly (do not over-torque), wipe clean, replace reservoir strainer and cap, and secure any brake lines or components disturbed during the process.
  11. Test the brake lever/pedal with the ATV on a stand first, then perform a low-speed road/test ride in a safe area to confirm braking performance before regular riding.

Tips & troubleshooting

  • If you cannot achieve firm pressure, inspect master cylinder and caliper pistons for wear or sticking. A worn master cylinder or collapsed caliper seals may require rebuild or replacement.
  • For stubborn air, use a pressure or vacuum bleeder and repeat the farthest-to-closest sequence. Gravity bleeding alone is slow and less effective.
  • If brake lever travel is long after bleeding, check for internal air in the master cylinder; bench-bleed or replace the master cylinder if necessary.
  • Always match DOT type. Mixing DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5 (silicone) can damage rubber components — never use DOT 5 in a system designed for glycol-based fluids.

Maintenance interval

MotoSport recommends inspecting fluid color annually and replacing brake fluid every 1-2 years depending on riding conditions, moisture exposure, and service history. For heavy use or wet conditions swap yearly.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.