How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS

Shop parts for a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS ATV.

This MotoSport guide gives a clear, model-specific procedure for flushing and bleeding the brake systems on a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS. The Grizzly has separate front and rear hydraulic systems: the front lever/master at the right handlebar for the twin front calipers, and the rear foot pedal/master for the rear caliper. Use DOT 4 brake fluid only — do not mix DOT 3 or DOT 5.1 unless the manual explicitly permits it. Avoid getting fluid on painted surfaces or plastics; brake fluid will damage them.

Tools & Supplies

  • Fresh DOT 4 brake fluid (purchase enough for a complete flush front & rear)
  • Bleeder kit or clear tubing and a catch bottle
  • Wrench to fit bleeder nipples (usually 8 mm or 10 mm)
  • Small Phillips screwdriver or coin to open reservoir lid (if needed)
  • Syringe or turkey-baster (optional) for removing old fluid from reservoirs
  • Clean rags, gloves, safety glasses
  • Bike stand or stable lift to access wheels and calipers

Prep & Safety

  • Work on a cool vehicle in a well-ventilated area. Wear gloves & eye protection.
  • Clean reservoir caps and surrounding area before opening to prevent contamination.
  • Keep the reservoir topped with fresh fluid during the process to avoid introducing air.
  • If power steering or electrical components were recently serviced, avoid contaminating those areas.

Step 1 Identify Masters & Reservoirs

  • Front master and reservoir: right handlebar area. It feeds the two front calipers.
  • Rear master and reservoir: near the foot brake master cylinder assembly on the frame, typically toward the rear footwell.
  • Treat each system separately. Do one system at a time to avoid cross-contamination.

Step 2 Drain Reservoirs

  • Open the reservoir cap(s). Remove the diaphragm or foam insert if present and wipe out visible sludge.
  • Use a syringe or turkey-baster to remove as much old fluid from the reservoir as possible.
  • Top reservoir with fresh DOT 4 fluid to the full mark before beginning the bleed sequence.

Step 3 Bleeding Order & Method

For the front system (two calipers) follow the caliper furthest from the master first, then the closer one. For the rear system bleed its single caliper.

  • Option A – Vacuum pump method (recommended for a single tech): Attach clear tubing to bleeder nipple and submerge other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fluid. Pump until clear, bubble-free fluid flows and no air appears. Keep reservoir topped.
  • Option B – Two-person squeeze method: One person slowly squeezes the lever (or presses the pedal) while the other opens the bleeder nipple briefly to let fluid/air out, then closes it before release. Repeat until fluid is clear and free of air.

Bleed Procedure Front Calipers

  • Raise and secure the ATV so the wheel is off the ground if needed for access.
  • Attach tubing to the bleeder nipple on the caliper furthest from the master. Place the other end in the catch bottle.
  • Have an assistant pump the lever slowly 3–5 times and hold it depressed (or use a vacuum pump to draw fluid). Open bleeder nipple slightly to allow fluid to flow. Close nipple before releasing the lever. Repeat until only clean fluid flows and no air is present.
  • Repeat on the remaining front caliper.
  • Top the reservoir to the proper level and reinstall the cap and diaphragm. Wipe any spills immediately.

Bleed Procedure Rear Caliper

  • Locate the rear bleeder nipple on the rear caliper. Attach tubing and place in catch bottle.
  • Use the same vacuum or two-person method as the front. Pump the pedal or use a vacuum until clear, air-free fluid flows.
  • Top the rear reservoir as needed and seal properly when finished.

Final Steps & Checks

  • Check pedal and lever firmness. They should feel solid, not spongy. If spongy, repeat bleeding until firm.
  • Check all bleeder nipples and reservoir caps for tightness. Torque to factory specs if available; snug and leak-free is the priority.
  • Spin wheels and confirm caliper pins are free and sliding. Test brakes at low speed in a safe area before full use.
  • Dispose of old brake fluid per local hazardous-waste regulations.

Model-Specific Notes for the 2011 Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS

  • The Grizzly 700 EPS does not have ABS; bleeding is straightforward per individual master cylinders.
  • Electronic Power Steering (EPS) components sit near the front end — avoid contaminating EPS connectors and motor with brake fluid.
  • Some aftermarket or worn caliper guide pins can bind on this model — if brakes drag or unevenly heat, inspect and clean/grease the guide pins and replace boots if torn.
  • Use caution when accessing the rear master reservoir; it can be partially obscured by frame brackets and wiring on the Grizzly. Clean thoroughly before opening.
  • If you detect a persistent soft pedal or repeated air ingress, check for leaking master cylinder seals, caliper pistons, or damaged hoses specific to older Grizzly 700 units.

Troubleshooting

  • Persistent air: ensure reservoir stays topped during bleeding and that bleeder nipples are fully closing.
  • Brake drag after bleeding: check caliper piston return, guide pins, and hose collapse; replace hose if suspect.
  • Contaminated components: if fluid soaked a rubber boot or pad, replace affected items rather than attempt cleaning.

Perform this service every 1–2 years or sooner if the fluid looks dark or contaminated. Regular brake system maintenance keeps your Grizzly 700 safe and responsive on trail or work duty.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.