How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4

Shop parts for a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 ATV.

This MotoSport guide walks you through replacing brake fluid and bleeding the brake system on a 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4. Work on one hydraulic circuit at a time, use DOT 4 brake fluid only, and take standard safety precautions to avoid contamination, paint/plastic damage, and air in the lines.

What you’ll need

  • DOT 4 brake fluid (fresh, unopened)
  • Clear plastic hose that fits snugly over the bleed nipple
  • Brake fluid catch container
  • Assistant (recommended) or a one-person vacuum or pressure bleeder
  • Wrenches for bleed nipples (typically 8-10 mm), open-end or flare
  • Clean rags, isopropyl alcohol for cleanup
  • Latex or nitrile gloves, eye protection
  • Torque wrench for reassembly if you remove components

Notes specific to the 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4

  • The 2011 Grizzly 700 uses DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not use DOT 5 (silicone) or mix DOT types.
  • This model has separate front and rear hydraulic circuits. Bleed each circuit separately.
  • There is no factory ABS system on the 2011 Grizzly 700; bleeding is straightforward caliper-to-master work.
  • Brake master cylinder reservoirs are on the handlebars (front) and rear brake master at the rear frame or near the engine depending on aftermarket setups. Identify each reservoir before starting.
  • Protect plastic bodywork and painted surfaces from fluid with rags; brake fluid will damage plastics and paint.
  • Replace rubber reservoir caps and seals if they’re cracked or swollen; they can let moisture into the system.

Preparation

  • Park the ATV on level ground, engage park or block wheels, and set the engine off. Work with the handlebars straight and secure.
  • Locate both brake fluid reservoirs and clean tops with a rag and alcohol to avoid contamination when opening.
  • Remove the caps carefully; do not let dirt fall into the reservoirs. Inspect fluid color – dark fluid indicates oxidation and a full fluid change is recommended.
  • Keep the reservoir filled above the minimum level throughout the procedure to prevent air ingestion.

Bleed sequence principle

Always bleed the caliper farthest from its master cylinder first, then work toward the nearest. For each circuit, that usually means:

  • Front circuit: bleed the opposite front caliper (right/left depending on routing) first, then the nearer one.
  • Rear circuit: bleed the rear caliper furthest from the rear master cylinder first.

Manual two-person bleed method (recommended)

  1. Have your assistant sit on the ATV or hold the brake lever/pedal and apply steady pressure when requested. Do not pump; hold steady pressure.
  2. Place the clear hose over the bleed nipple of the caliper you’re working on and submerge the other end in a small container partially filled with old brake fluid to prevent air re-entry.
  3. Loosen the bleed nipple (about a quarter to half turn) and instruct your assistant to hold the lever/pedal down. Fluid and bubbles will flow into the hose. Tighten the nipple while the lever/pedal is down, then have assistant release.
  4. Repeat the pressure-release cycle until only clear, bubble-free fluid flows and reservoir level remains stable. Keep topping the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 fluid as needed.
  5. When finished with a caliper, tighten the bleed nipple snugly and wipe any spilled fluid immediately.
  6. Proceed to the next caliper following the farthest-to-closest rule, then repeat the same process for the other circuit.

One-person vacuum or pressure bleeder method

  • Attach the bleeder according to the tool’s instructions. Open the caliper bleed nipple and operate the bleeder until fluid runs clear and bubble-free.
  • Keep the reservoir topped with fresh DOT 4 fluid; never allow it to drop below minimum.

Full fluid replacement tips

  • For a full system flush replace all fluid in each reservoir by pumping out old fluid while adding fresh. Flush until the fluid from every bleeder is clear and the new fluid matches the fresh bottle.
  • Work one circuit at a time to avoid cross contamination and ensure correct fluid levels.

After bleeding

  • Ensure bleed nipples are tight and capped. Wipe all fittings and painted surfaces with alcohol to remove any drips.
  • Top reservoirs to the full mark, reinstall caps, and secure clamps/fasteners.
  • Test brake lever and pedal feel with wheels off the ground first; you should have a firm, consistent feel. If spongy, repeat bleeding.
  • Road-test at low speed in a safe area to confirm braking performance before riding normally.
  • Properly dispose of used brake fluid according to local regulations — do not pour down drains or on the ground.

Troubleshooting & maintenance notes

  • Persistent sponginess after thorough bleeding indicates possible internal master cylinder seals or caliper piston seal issues — inspect and rebuild or replace as needed.
  • If hoses are swollen or old, replace them. Soft or perished lines can allow air ingress and degrade braking.
  • Replace reservoir caps, diaphragms, and rubber seals if brittle or cracked to maintain moisture exclusion.
  • Service interval: replace brake fluid every 1-2 years or sooner if the fluid darkens or the ride is used in wet/muddy environments frequently.

Following this MotoSport procedure will keep your 2011 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4’s brakes responsive and reliable. If you encounter hardware failures or uncertain brake performance after bleeding, have a qualified technician inspect the master cylinders and calipers before riding.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.