How to Bleed & Replace Brake Fluid on a 2011 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC

Shop parts for a 2011 CAN-AM REN800RXC ATV.

This MotoSport-exclusive guide covers safe, complete hydraulic brake fluid replacement and bleeding for the 2011 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC. Follow every step, use the correct fluid, and take model-specific notes into account to preserve braking performance and protect ABS/sensors if equipped.

Important model notes

  • The Renegade 800R X XC has two independent hydraulic circuits: a front brake lever circuit (handlebar master cylinder) and a rear brake pedal circuit (rear master cylinder). Bleed each circuit separately.
  • Use DOT 4 brake fluid unless the owner’s manual specifies otherwise. Do not use DOT 5 (silicone) or mix fluid types.
  • The OEM reservoir caps and sight windows are plastic — avoid spills. Brake fluid will damage paint, plastics & rubber; have isopropyl alcohol or water nearby to flush accidental spills immediately.
  • Typical bleeder screw fittings on Renegade calipers are small; common bleeder wrench sizes are 8 mm or 10 mm. Bring a set to confirm fit. Banjo bolt torque for calipers is typically low — clean threads and use correct crush washers when reassembling.
  • If your unit has aftermarket calipers, ABS, or brake light switches, account for additional bleed points or procedures. When in doubt, bleed to firm lever/pedal feel and no air bubbles in clear tubing.

Tools & supplies

  • DOT 4 brake fluid (high-quality, unopened bottle)
  • Clear vinyl tubing to fit bleeder nipples
  • Catch bottle (sealed) or reservoir bottle with one-way valve
  • Brake bleeder pump or handheld vacuum pump OR a firm two-person setup
  • Shop rags, isopropyl alcohol, gloves, eye protection
  • 8 mm & 10 mm wrenches, hex/Allen set for caliper removal if needed
  • Torque wrench (for banjo bolts & caliper bolts)
  • Jack or stand to keep wheels off the ground for free-rotating discs (optional)

Preparation

  1. Park ATV on level ground, engine off, key out. Securely chock wheels.
  2. Clean reservoir cap area before opening to prevent contamination. Remove cap and diaphragm slowly to relieve any pressure.
  3. Inspect rotor, pads, hoses & lines for leaks or damage. Replace damaged components before bleeding.
  4. Set up catch bottle and clear tubing on bleeder nipple; tubing end must remain submerged in a small amount of old fluid in the bottle to prevent air re-entry.

Which fluid circuit to do first

Because the front and rear circuits are independent, bleed whichever circuit you need to service first. When replacing all system fluid, do the rear circuit (pedal) first, then the front lever circuit. This prevents cross-contamination and makes handling reservoirs easier.

Bleeding procedure — general method (single-operator option with reservoir pump OR two-person method)

  1. Top up reservoir to the MAX line with DOT 4. Keep reservoir cap loosely threaded between operations to allow air escape but prevent contamination.
  2. Start with the bleeder furthest from the corresponding master cylinder (farthest caliper). For the rear circuit this is typically the rear caliper only; for the front circuit bleed the outer/front-most caliper first then the inner/near caliper. If unsure, bleed the caliper furthest from the brake lever/master cylinder first.
  3. Attach clear tubing to bleeder nipple, place other end in catch bottle with a small amount of old fluid and the tubing submerged.
  4. Two-person method: Person A slowly squeezes the brake lever or depresses the pedal several times and holds firm. Person B opens bleeder screw ~1/4 turn and allows fluid/air to flow until flow slows, then closes the screw before Person A releases pressure. Repeat until no air bubbles appear and fluid runs clear, topping reservoir frequently to avoid running dry.
  5. Single-operator with vacuum pump or hand pump: Apply vacuum at bleeder nipple while maintaining a full reservoir. Pump/suck until clear fluid without bubbles appears, then close bleeder while vacuum is applied. Release vacuum, then check lever/pedal firmness.
  6. After each caliper is clear, tighten bleeder to spec snug (do not overtighten). Wipe clean.
  7. Repeat for the next caliper in the bleed order. When front circuit is done, squeeze lever to confirm firm feel; when rear circuit is done, press pedal to confirm firm feel.
  8. When all circuits are bled and reservoir is topped to correct level, reinstall diaphragm & cap, wipe any spilled fluid, and test brakes at low speed in a safe area before returning to normal riding.

Replacing all brake fluid (complete flush)

  1. Perform the bleed procedure on each caliper until fluid leaving bleeders is clear and at the same fresh fluid color from the new bottle.
  2. Keep reservoir topped with new fluid only; do not let old fluid flow back into reservoir during the process.
  3. If a large portion of fluid is contaminated, consider removing old fluid from reservoir with syringe and refilling with fresh fluid multiple times while bleeding each caliper until all lines are clear.

Reassembly & torque notes

  • Reinstall any caliper or hose fittings with new crush washers where applicable. Torque banjo/caliper bolts to manufacturer spec if available; if not known, snug plus an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn is typical for small caliper bolts. Avoid over-torquing plastic or aluminum components.
  • Clean all components with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol; do not contaminate pads or rotors with grease or fluid.

Safety & disposal

  • Brake fluid is hygroscopic and hazardous waste. Store unused fluid sealed and dispose of old fluid per local regulations.
  • Wear gloves & eye protection. Wash skin immediately if contact occurs. If fluid contacts painted surfaces, rinse quickly with water.
  • Confirm no leaks at lines, hoses, fittings, master cylinders or calipers before riding. Test brakes at walking speed first.

Troubleshooting

  • Spongy lever/pedal after bleeding: re-check reservoir level, ensure bleeder screw fully closed, re-bleed the furthest caliper until no bubbles appear. Inspect for leaking hoses, cracked lines, or collapsing hoses under pressure.
  • Persistent air: consider bench-bleeding the master cylinder/reservoir if removable, or replacing old rubber hoses that may trap air.
  • Brake drag after bleeding: ensure bleeder closed and caliper pistons are fully seated; check pad fitment and caliper slide pins for proper lubrication.

Following this MotoSport guide will restore brake performance and help prevent contamination or damage. If you encounter structural damage, persistent air, or ABS-related issues, consult a technician or MotoSport service partner for professional help.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.