How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400
Shop parts for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.This MotoSport proprietary guide covers safe, complete brake-fluid replacement and bleeding for the 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 (two-up Outlander). Follow these steps carefully. If you're not comfortable working on brakes, have a qualified tech perform the service.
What you need
- Brake fluid: DOT 4 (MotoSport recommends DOT 4 for this model)
- Clear hose sized to caliper bleed nipples
- Catch bottle for old fluid
- Brake-fluid syringe or vacuum bleeder (optional but speeds job)
- Turkey baster or squeeze bottle for removing old fluid from reservoir
- Clean rags, rubber gloves, eye protection
- Socket/wrench set for bleed nipples and reservoir cap
- Jack or ramps to elevate ATV safely and wheel chocks
Model notes & safety reminders
- The Outlander MAX 400 is a two-up chassis; brake lines may be slightly longer than single-seat models — inspect lines for wear, chafing, and corrosion while servicing.
- Can-Am uses hydraulic disc brakes front and rear. The master cylinder and reservoir are mounted behind the handlebars; locate and clean the cap area before opening to avoid contamination.
- Brake fluid rapidly absorbs moisture. If fluid is dark or the system has not been serviced for several years, replace the fluid now and inspect caliper seals and hoses.
- Never let the reservoir run dry during bleeding; contaminated air will lengthen the process.
- Brake fluid damages paint and plastics. Wipe spills immediately and dispose of old fluid per local regulations.
Preparation
- Park ATV on level ground, engage parking brake, place wheel chocks, and disconnect the battery negative terminal to prevent accidental starts while working near electricals.
- Clean around the reservoir cap to prevent dirt falling into the system. Remove cap and diaphragm; cover the opening with clean paper to keep out dust.
- Use a turkey baster or syringe to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir; do not empty completely. Refill to just below the max line with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
- Raise wheels slightly if needed for access; secure the machine on stands so wheels can be rotated if necessary while bleeding.
Bleeding order
Use the standard farthest-to-nearest sequence relative to the master cylinder: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, then proceed to the next farthest, finishing with the caliper closest. On most Outlander MAX 400 setups this sequence is typically: rear, then passenger/front-right, then driver/front-left (confirm actual routing visually on your machine).
Manual (two-person) bleed procedure
- Have an assistant sit on the seat and pump the brake lever gently several times, then hold pressure while you open the bleed nipple on the first caliper with the clear hose leading to a catch bottle. Tighten nipple before the lever is released to avoid air re-entry.
- Repeat pump, open, close cycles until the fluid runs clear and free of bubbles. Keep the reservoir topped up during the entire process.
- Move to the next caliper in the bleed order and repeat the same pump-open-close steps.
- Finish at the caliper closest to the master cylinder. After the final caliper, ensure the reservoir level is between the min/max marks, reinstall diaphragm and cap, and wipe any spilled fluid.
- Test lever feel: firm lever travel with no sponginess. If soft, repeat bleeding until firm.
One-person vacuum or pressure bleeding (recommended)
- Attach a vacuum bleeder to the bleed nipple or use a pressure bleeder on the reservoir per the tool instructions.
- Open the bleed nipple slightly and allow fluid to be drawn steadily until clear and bubble-free. Keep the reservoir topped during the process with fresh DOT 4.
- Proceed through the bleed sequence farthest to nearest as above.
- After bleeding, close bleed nipples and confirm no leaks. Reinstall reservoir cap.
Gravity bleed (slow, for minor topping)
Gravity bleeding can work for small top-offs: open bleed nipples slightly and let fluid flow slowly while keeping the reservoir full. This is slower and less reliable for removing trapped air; use only if other methods are unavailable.
Post-bleed checks
- Inspect bleed nipples and hose connections for leaks and tighten to spec if necessary.
- Check lever and pedal feel at rest and during a cautious low-speed test ride in a safe area. Brakes should engage firmly without sponginess.
- Recheck fluid level after a short ride and top to max if needed.
- Dispose of used brake fluid responsibly; do not pour down drains or onto ground.
Additional MotoSport tips for the 2011 Outlander MAX 400
- Inspect caliper pistons for sticking during pad changes; the MAX configuration can hide calipers under bodywork, so remove covers to inspect.
- Replace lines that show swelling, cracking, or soft spots. Upgrading to stainless-braided lines can improve pedal feel and longevity.
- When replacing pads or rotors, clean mating surfaces and torque hardware to factory specs. If you need parts, see the MotoSport parts page linked above.
- If brakes remain soft after multiple bleeds, check the master cylinder, ABS module (if equipped), and internal caliper seals; these components may need rebuilding or replacement.
Perform a final road-test in a safe, controlled environment to validate braking performance. If any doubts remain, have a professional technician inspect the system.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 400 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.