How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS
Shop parts for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS ATV.
This MotoSport guide walks you through draining and replacing the brake fluid on a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS and fully bleeding the system so brakes feel firm and consistent. Procedures below are written for the stock hydraulic disc brakes on the Grizzly 700 (non-ABS). Follow all safety steps – if you are uncomfortable with brake work, seek a qualified technician.
What you need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (fresh, unopened)
- Clear hose that fits bleed nipples
- Catch bottle for old fluid
- Wrench for bleed nipples (typically 8 mm or 10 mm; confirm on your bike)
- Phillips/flat screwdriver for reservoir cap or socket for cap screws
- Clean rags and brake cleaner
- Gloves and eye protection
- Brake bleeding tool or vacuum pump (optional but speeds job)
- Jack/stand to lift wheels comfortably
- Service manual or paper to note sequence
Safety & prep
- Do this in a well-ventilated area away from paintwork. Brake fluid damages painted surfaces — protect plastics and metal.
- Park on level ground, engage park/park brake, and secure the machine. Lift wheels you will work on off the ground.
- Remove wheels, racks, or panels only as needed to access calipers and reservoir. On the Grizzly 700 the brake fluid reservoir sits under the front console area – clear access so you can monitor fluid level.
- Keep the reservoir cap closed until ready. Clean around the cap before opening to prevent contamination.
Model notes specific to the 2010 Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS
- The Grizzly 700 uses sealed hydraulic calipers with external bleed nipples on each caliper. There is a single master/reservoir assembly for front and rear circuits. Make sure to identify the reservoir and any internal divider when changing fluid.
- Electric Power Steering (EPS) models are sensitive to low-voltage conditions – avoid repeatedly cranking the starter or running heavy electrical loads while bleeding if the engine must be started. Disconnect accessories as needed.
- The 2010 model has no ABS hydraulic modulator; bleeding procedures are straightforward caliper-by-caliper. If you have an aftermarket brake upgrade or ABS conversion, follow that system's specific procedure.
- Yamaha recommends DOT 4 fluid for many models; use only DOT 4 unless your manual specifies otherwise. Do not mix DOT 5 (silicone) or DOT 5.1 unless specified.
- Brake fluid change interval: replace every 1-2 years or sooner if contaminated or dark. Store used fluid responsibly — it is hazardous waste.
Step-by-step: drain old fluid & replace
- Remove the reservoir cover and diaphragm. Use a clean rag to wipe the top of the reservoir, then remove fluid with a syringe or turkey baster until the reservoir is nearly empty. CAUTION: avoid spilling fluid onto plastics or paint.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 fluid to the specified level. Do not overfill.
- If doing a full fluid flush, pump the calipers dry by bleeding caliper-by-caliper: attach clear hose to the caliper bleed nipple, submerge open end in a bottle partly filled with fresh fluid (prevents air draw back), open bleed nipple about 1/4 turn, then gently squeeze the brake lever (front) or press the rear brake pedal (rear) to push old fluid and air out. Close nipple while lever/pedal is depressed, release lever/pedal, then repeat until clear fluid runs and no air is present. Top up reservoir regularly to avoid drawing air into system.
- Work one wheel/caliper at a time. Typical bleed sequence: start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and move to the closest. On the Grizzly 700 that generally means: rear caliper first, then front calipers (left/right) or follow factory-recommended sequence in the service manual. Always keep the reservoir topped up.
- If you have a two-piece caliper assembly or dual-piston design, ensure both pistons retract equally — use the lever and a gentle press on the caliper piston if needed before reassembly.
- Use a vacuum pump or pressure bleeder to speed and simplify the job: connect to the reservoir (if using a pressure bleeder) or to the bleed nipple (vacuum pump) and follow the tool instructions. These methods help draw fluid through without multiple lever cycles but still require topping the reservoir and closing nipples securely.
- When fluid runs clear and free of air bubbles, tighten bleed nipple to factory snugness (do not over-torque). Wipe away spills and reinstall reservoir diaphragm and cap.
- Reinstall wheels and torque wheel fasteners to factory specs. Lower the machine and test brake lever/pedal firmness. If spongy, re-bleed until firm.
Bleeding tips & troubleshooting
- If brake lever/pedal feels spongy after bleeding, verify no air remains in system and double-check hose clamps and banjo fittings for leaks.
- Do not allow the reservoir to run dry during bleeding — doing so introduces air into the master cylinder and calipers and will require repeating the full bleed.
- If one caliper continues to produce air, remove the caliper and check for collapsed hoses or damaged seals. Replace components as necessary.
- After bleeding, pump brakes with engine off and confirm firm operation before riding. Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area to confirm proper operation.
Maintenance & disposal
- Store spare brake fluid sealed and labeled. Do not use fluid that has been open for long periods or contaminated with water.
- Dispose of used brake fluid at a hazardous waste facility or according to local regulations. Do not pour down drains or on the ground.
- Record the service date and mileage/hours. Routine replacement keeps boiling point high and reduces corrosion inside the system.
Final checks before ride
- Confirm no leaks at bleed nipples, banjo bolts, or fittings.
- Ensure reservoir cap is sealed and diaphragm is correctly seated.
- Verify brake light switch operation and any ABS or sensors are functioning (if applicable).
- Perform a brief, controlled brake test at walking speed to confirm stopping performance before normal riding.
For vehicle-specific torque values, exploded views, or parts diagrams for the 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS, reference your factory service manual or contact MotoSport parts specialists for OEM components and fittings.
Related Shopping Categories
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Shop Brake Lines for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2010 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4X4 EPS ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
