How to Bleed and Replace Brake Fluid on a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth
Shop parts for a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV.
This MotoSport service guide walks you through safely flushing old brake fluid and bleeding the brake system on a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV. The Sawtooth uses a hydraulic brake system with a compact master cylinder and front/rear calipers; routine fluid replacement restores braking performance and prevents internal corrosion. Read the entire procedure before beginning and follow all safety cautions.
What you’ll need
- DOT 4 brake fluid (Polaris recommends DOT 4; DOT 3 is compatible but DOT 4 has higher boiling point)
- Brake bleeder kit or clear tubing and a catch bottle
- Turkey baster or fluid syringe
- 7, 8, 10 mm wrench set (banjo bolt common sizes; check your hardware)
- Hex/Allen set (if caliper bleed nipples use Allen)
- Torque wrench (capable of low ft-lb range)
- Clean rags, nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Paper towels or shop towels and isopropyl alcohol for cleanup
- New crush washers for banjo fittings (recommended) and replacement bleed nipple gaskets if worn
Safety first
- Work on a flat, stable surface with the ATV in Park and engine off. Chock wheels to prevent movement.
- Brake fluid is corrosive to paint & plastics. Avoid spills and wipe immediately with water & clean cloths.
- Use gloves & eye protection. Dispose of old fluid per local regulationsdo not pour down drains.
Model notes for the 2006 Polaris Sawtooth
- 2006 Sawtooth models typically do not have ABS; bleeding is conventional: master cylinder reservoir — lines — calipers.
- Reservoir orientation is compact and sometimes under a plastic cover; remove plastics carefully to avoid damaging clips.
- Banjo bolts on calipers often use copper crush washers — replace these whenever the line is disturbed to ensure leak-free sealing.
- Some Sawtooth units have a combined front-caliper setup; identify left/right bleed nipples to ensure complete evacuation of air pockets.
- If your Sawtooth shows spongy lever/pedal feel after bleeding, check flexible hoses for internal collapse or swelling — replace aged hoses.
Preparation
- Park the ATV on level ground, engage parking brake or shift into Park, and chock rear wheels.
- Remove any plastic covers blocking access to the master cylinder and calipers. Keep fasteners in a tray.
- Clean the area around the master cylinder reservoir cap to prevent contamination.
- Unscrew the reservoir cap and diaphragm slowly. Use a turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir to the lowest practical level.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 fluid just above the minimum line. Replace cap loosely for now.
Bleeding methods (choose one)
Option A — Two-person manual bleed (recommended for best control)
- Have an assistant slowly depress and hold the brake lever/pedal.
- Attach clear tubing to the lowest caliper bleed nipple and submerge the other end in a catch bottle part-filled with fresh brake fluid to prevent air re-entry.
- Open the bleed nipple 1/4 to 1/2 turn with the proper wrench. Fluid and bubbles will flow into the tubing. Close the nipple before the assistant releases the lever/pedal.
- Repeat: pump/hold — open nipple — close nipple — release. Keep checking reservoir fluid level and top as needed to avoid running dry (air entry). Continue until clear fluid with no bubbles exits.
- Tighten the bleed nipple to spec (snug; typically 8-12 ft-lb depending on hardware) and wipe clean.
- Repeat for the other caliper(s) following the sequence: farthest from master cylinder first (usually rear caliper, then front calipers left/right as applicable).
Option B — One-person vacuum or pressure bleeder
- Connect vacuum bleeder to bleed nipple or attach a pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir per tool instructions.
- Open the bleed nipple and draw fluid until clear, bubble-free fluid appears. Keep reservoir topped up.
- Close bleed nipple, then move to the next caliper. Follow same farthest-first sequence.
Replacing brake fluid system components (when needed)
- When replacing lines or removing banjo fittings, replace copper crush washers on each side of the banjo fitting. Torque banjo bolts to a light torque value (generally 7–12 ft-lb); do not overtighten.
- If master cylinder seals are leaking or sponginess persists after proper bleeding, rebuild or replace the master cylinder assembly with MotoSport-approved parts.
- Always use fresh DOT 4 fluid from a sealed container. Never mix mineral-oil systems with DOT fluids; Polaris brake systems use DOT fluid only.
Step-by-step complete flush
- Drain as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir with syringe/turkey baster. Refill with fresh DOT 4.
- Start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest. For Sawtooth that usually means rear caliper first, then front calipers.
- Bleed each caliper until fluid runs clear and bubble-free. Keep reservoir topped to prevent sucking air into master cylinder.
- When finished bleeding all calipers, pump the brake lever/pedal several times to confirm firm, consistent feel. Inspect for leaks at banjo bolts, bleed nipples & hose fittings.
- Torque banjo bolts and bleed nipple fittings to specified tightness if you disturbed them. Clean any spilled fluid and reinstall plastic covers.
- Dispose of used brake fluid properly. Record service date and mileage for future maintenance.
Troubleshooting
- Spongy brake lever after bleeding: repeat bleeding sequence, ensure reservoir never ran dry, inspect hoses for internal collapse, check caliper pistons for seizure.
- Brake lever slowly sinks to handlebar: likely internal master cylinder seal leak — rebuild or replace master cylinder.
- Persistent leaks at banjo bolt: replace crush washers and retorque; if leak continues, inspect mating surfaces and hose fitting for damage.
Maintenance intervals & final notes
- For reliable performance replace brake fluid every 1–2 years or sooner if contaminated or discolored.
- Keep a record of fluid type and service date. Use DOT 4 for the Sawtooth unless local conditions or owner preference specify DOT 3, but avoid mixing incompatible fluids.
- If you’re unsure about torque values or encounter unusual hardware, use MotoSport replacement parts and consult a trained technician.
Perform all work carefully. If you are not comfortable performing a full brake fluid flush or replacing brake components, have a MotoSport-recommended mechanic service your 2006 Polaris Sawtooth to ensure safe operation.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.