Bleeding the Brakes on a 2025 Honda ADV160

Shop parts for a 2025 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

The 2025 Honda ADV160 uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is equipped with ABS. That means the front brake lever and the rear brake lever each operate a hydraulic circuit, and a proper bleed refreshes old fluid while pushing trapped air out of the calipers and lines. The job is well within reach for a DIY rider with basic tools, but the ABS unit changes one important rule: a normal bleed at the calipers is fine for routine fluid service, while air that has entered the ABS unit itself may need dealer-level equipment. Keep that distinction in mind before you start.

When the ADV160 Needs a Brake Bleed

A spongy or soft lever is the classic sign that air is in the system. On the ADV160, you may also notice the lever pulling closer to the grip than it used to, or a lever that feels inconsistent from one stop to the next. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another reason to bleed, and any work that opened the hydraulic system—new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work—should be followed by a bleed. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can lead to brake fade under hard use, so many riders refresh it on a regular schedule even when the brakes still feel normal.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
  • A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
  • A catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels
  • A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person work easier

Preparing the Scooter and Protecting Surfaces

Support the ADV160 securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the levers. Turn the handlebars so the reservoir for the circuit you are bleeding sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Work in a well-ventilated space, and keep the fresh fluid container closed when you are not pouring from it.

Removing Old Fluid and Refilling the Reservoir

Clean the reservoir cap and surrounding area before opening anything, so dirt does not fall into the fluid. Remove the cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or turkey baster to take most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir run dry at any point during the job, because that is exactly how air gets drawn into the system. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, leaving enough room to see the level as you work. Keep the cap and diaphragm clean and close at hand.

Bleeding the Front and Rear Brakes

  1. Confirm the fluid type marked on the reservoir cap, then set up the bike and protect the painted and plastic surfaces as described above.
  2. Open the reservoir for the circuit you are bleeding, remove most of the old fluid, and top off with fresh fluid.
  3. Fit the box-end wrench over the bleeder valve on the caliper, then push the clear tubing onto the bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle.
  4. Squeeze the front brake lever slowly and hold it against the grip. Do not pump it rapidly.
  5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape through the tube. Watch the tube, not the lever.
  6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing the lever with the bleeder open can pull air back into the caliper.
  7. Release the lever slowly, check the reservoir level, and top off with fresh fluid. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle until clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube.
  8. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, finishing one completely before moving to the other. As a general rule, begin with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder when a system has more than one.
  9. Move to the rear brake and repeat the same sequence using the rear brake lever. Keep checking and topping off the reservoir for that circuit so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
  10. When both circuits have produced clean, bubble-free fluid, close each bleeder snugly without overtightening, then refill each reservoir to the correct level marking.

Finishing, Leak Checks, and Test Ride

Reinstall the diaphragm and cap on each reservoir, then clean any spilled fluid from the calipers, lines, and surrounding bodywork. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings. The front and rear levers should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and make sure the ADV160 stops smoothly and predictably.

When to Take the ADV160 to a Shop

If a lever will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms up only after pumping, or if you keep seeing air bubbles, stop and have the scooter inspected. Fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper also needs attention before the bike is ridden. Because the ADV160 has ABS, any situation where the reservoir ran dry, the ABS unit was disturbed, or its lines were disconnected may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Do not try to guess your way through an ABS bleed; a shop with the correct equipment is the safer choice.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.