Bleeding the Brakes on a 2024 Honda ADV160

Shop parts for a 2024 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

The 2024 Honda ADV160 stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and both are worked by hand levers on the bar — right lever for the front brake, left lever for the rear. That layout shapes the whole job: you will be squeezing levers rather than pressing a foot pedal, and the rear master cylinder sits up near the left grip instead of down by your right foot. Most ADV160s also carry ABS, which matters if air has found its way into the wrong part of the system. What follows is a complete fluid flush and air bleed for this scooter, from setup through a low-speed test.

Confirm What You Are Working On

Before you touch a wrench, look at your own bike. The ADV160 uses a hydraulic disc at the front wheel and a hydraulic disc at the rear, each with its own master cylinder, reservoir, and caliper. The front reservoir is built into the right-hand lever perch; the rear reservoir is at the left lever. Both caps are held by small screws, and both caps carry a marking that tells you which fluid the system was built for — that marking is your only source of truth on fluid type, so read it and buy exactly that, from a sealed container.

Check whether your scooter has ABS. If it does, understand the limit up front: a normal bleed through the caliper bleeders is fine for refreshing fluid, but if the reservoir ever ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may be trapped inside the modulator where lever pressure cannot push it out. That is a dealer-level job with a diagnostic tool, not a garage job.

Signs the Brakes Need Bleeding

Air and moisture are the two reasons to bleed. Air shows up as a lever that feels spongy or soft, or one that now travels noticeably closer to the grip than it used to. Moisture is quieter: brake fluid pulls water out of the air over time, and that water lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can boil the fluid and give you a lever that goes long or fades. Dark, cloudy, or gritty-looking fluid in either reservoir is a clear signal to flush. You should also bleed after any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work — because that work lets air in.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on your reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
  • A small catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job easier

Set Up and Protect the Scooter

Put the ADV160 on a stand so it sits securely upright and will not tip while you are leaning on a lever. Turn the bars so the reservoir you are working on sits level — an angled reservoir spills. Then cover the surrounding bodywork, the instrument area, and any painted panels with rags. Brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact, so wipe up any drip immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the cap on the reservoir you are not working on.

The Bleeding Procedure

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to pull most of the old fluid out of the reservoir without letting the level drop far enough to uncover the port at the bottom.
  2. Refill with fresh fluid from your sealed container, leaving the reservoir comfortably full.
  3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle below the caliper.
  4. Squeeze the lever and hold it steady. On the ADV160 that means the right lever for the front caliper and the left lever for the rear.
  5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not the reservoir.
  6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the valve open draws air straight back in.
  7. Release the lever slowly, then repeat squeeze–hold–open–close. Keep the reservoir topped off between cycles so it never runs low enough to pull air.
  8. Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh, and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder and top the reservoir off.
  9. Move to the other caliper and repeat the whole sequence with its own lever. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed them one at a time rather than together.

As a general habit, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder in terms of line length, since that end tends to hold air longest.

Finishing the Job

Tighten the bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench — firm, not forced, since overtightening can damage the seat. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, not above it. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap and snug the screws. Wipe down every surface you touched, rinse any fluid residue with water, and inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the caliper and master cylinder for weeping.

Test Before You Ride

Both levers should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink toward the grip while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test at walking pace and again at low speed before riding normally.

When to Stop and See a Shop

If a lever will not firm up after several rounds, if it only firms up when you pump it, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid at the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the scooter inspected. Any suspicion that air entered the ABS unit is also a shop visit. Brakes are not the place to keep guessing.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2024 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2024 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2024 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2024 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2024 Honda ADV160 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.