Bleeding the Brakes on a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS
Shop parts for a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS Motorcycle.What You're Working With on the Monkey ABS
The 2022 Honda Monkey ABS runs hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and both of them are fed by their own master cylinder. The front brake is operated by the lever on the right handlebar, and the rear is operated by the foot pedal on the right side of the bike. Neither system is linked to the other, so the front lever works the front brake only and the rear pedal works the rear brake only. That is good news for a home mechanic, because it means you can bleed one end at a time, at your own pace, without worrying about a combined sequence.
The ABS part deserves a moment of attention before you pick up a wrench. A routine fluid flush done through the caliper bleeder valves is the same basic job you would do on a non-ABS bike. What changes is the consequence of letting air into the system. The ABS modulator is a small hydraulic unit with internal passages, and air that gets trapped inside it is not always pushed out by ordinary lever pumping at the calipers. If the reservoir has run dry, if a line has been disconnected, or if the ABS unit itself has been disturbed, the bike should go to a dealer rather than being bled in a driveway.
Signs the Monkey Is Due for a Bleed
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture does two unhelpful things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, which invites fade during hard or repeated braking, and it darkens the fluid and can corrode internal parts. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when the brakes still feel fine.
Watch for these symptoms as well:
- A lever or pedal that feels spongy, soft, or vague instead of firm
- A front lever that now comes noticeably closer to the grip than it used to
- Fluid in the reservoir that looks dark, cloudy, or contaminated with debris
- Any recent work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder repair
- A lever that firms up after a few quick pumps, which is a classic sign of air in the system
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
Gather everything before you open the reservoir, because once the cap is off you do not want to be hunting for a missing item with the system exposed.
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
- Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a way to rinse spills with water
- A syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job easier
Setting Up and Protecting the Finish
Put the Monkey on a stand so it sits securely upright and cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebar so the front reservoir sits level; a tilted reservoir will spill fluid the moment the cap comes off. Drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so wipe up any drip immediately and rinse the area with water rather than letting it sit.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Wipe the reservoir cap and the area around it clean so dirt cannot fall in once the cap is off.
- Remove the cap and the diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough that the port at the bottom stays covered.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid from the sealed container, keeping it below the top edge so it does not overflow when you work the lever.
- Press the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve on the front caliper and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube end stays submerged.
- Squeeze the front lever several times and hold it firmly against the grip.
- With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back into the caliper.
- Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle, topping off the reservoir every few cycles so it never drops low enough to pull air in.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it.
- Move to the rear brake and repeat the same process using the foot pedal instead of the lever, working the pedal by hand so you can feel it build pressure.
- If your bike has more than one front caliper, bleed each caliper in turn, finishing with the one closest to the master cylinder.
As a general habit, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder and work toward the closest one. On the Monkey that is straightforward, since each end has its own master cylinder and its own caliper.
Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks
Once both ends are bled, fill each reservoir to the level marking on the body, not to the brim. Reinstall the diaphragm so it sits flat, then the cap, and tighten the screws evenly. Wipe down the calipers, the bleeders, and the reservoir area, and rinse away any fluid that landed on painted or plastic surfaces. Look closely at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for weeping or wetness, and correct anything you find before you ride.
Testing Before You Ride
Pull the front lever and press the rear pedal separately. Each should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin the front and rear wheels by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. If either end feels soft at that point, stop and bleed it again rather than hoping it improves.
When the Job Belongs in a Shop
Take the Monkey to a dealer if the lever or pedal will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, or if you suspect air entered the ABS unit through a dry reservoir or disconnected line. Those situations call for equipment and procedures beyond a home garage, and brakes are not the system to experiment on.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2022 Honda Monkey ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.