How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2020 Honda NC750X DCT ABS

Shop parts for a 2020 Honda NC750XDCTABS Motorcycle.

The 2020 Honda NC750XDCTABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is equipped with ABS. That combination means the normal service is still a caliper-level bleed, but the ABS hardware sits between the master cylinders and the calipers. This guide covers a fluid refresh and air removal for the front and rear hydraulic brakes on this specific model. It does not cover pad, rotor, caliper, or brake line replacement, and it does not cover a hydraulic clutch. If air has entered the ABS unit itself, the job is no longer a simple home bleed.

When a Brake Bleed Is Due

Bleeding is due when the front lever or rear pedal feels spongy, soft, or inconsistent. A lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a pedal that needs extra travel before the brakes bite, is a warning sign. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another reason to flush the system. Bleeding is also required after any work that opened the hydraulic circuit, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.

Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. Moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can lead to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance. On the 2020 NC750X DCT ABS, use only fresh brake fluid from a sealed container and confirm the fluid type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap before opening anything.

Tools and Supplies for the Job

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
  • A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
  • A clear catch bottle for used fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old reservoir fluid
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier

Setting Up the NC750X DCT ABS Safely

Support the motorcycle securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you work. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you remove the cap. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If fluid spills, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Work with the reservoir accessible and the caliper bleeder reachable without stretching hoses or tipping the bike. Keep the catch bottle lower than the bleeder so fluid and air can flow away from the caliper. Set out the fresh fluid before you start so you are not searching for it with an open reservoir.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but do not let the reservoir run dry.
  2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid to the upper level marking. Keep the cap and diaphragm nearby and clean.
  3. Attach the clear tubing to the front caliper bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be drawn in around it.
  4. Squeeze the front brake lever several times to build pressure, then hold it firmly. While holding the lever, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will move through the tube. Close the bleeder before releasing the lever.
  5. Check the reservoir level and top it off with fresh fluid. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close sequence until clean, fresh fluid comes through the tube with no bubbles. Never release the lever while the bleeder is open.
  6. If your bike has more than one front caliper, bleed each caliper in turn. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and keep the reservoir topped off throughout.
  7. Move to the rear brake. Attach the clear tube to the rear caliper bleeder and route it into the catch bottle. Press and hold the rear pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, let fluid and air out, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
  8. Repeat the rear pedal sequence until the fluid is clean and bubble-free. Keep checking the rear reservoir and topping it off so it never draws air into the system.

Finishing the Job and Checking for Leaks

When the fluid runs clear and bubble-free at both ends, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, then reinstall the diaphragm and cap. Clean any spilled fluid from the calipers, lines, reservoir, and surrounding bodywork. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings before you ride.

Test Ride and Troubleshooting

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and neither should slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid leaks from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the system inspected.

On the 2020 NC750X DCT ABS, also send the bike to a shop if the reservoir ran dry, if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, or if you suspect air is trapped in the ABS hardware. A standard caliper bleed is not designed to purge the ABS unit, and that work may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.