Bleeding the Brakes on a 2020 Honda NC750X
Shop parts for a 2020 Honda NC750X Motorcycle.What You're Working With on This Bike
The 2020 Honda NC750X stops with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. The lever on the right handlebar pressurizes the front circuit, and the pedal on the right side of the bike pressurizes the rear. On this model the two circuits are independent, so each one gets bled on its own, and each has its own master cylinder reservoir—the front one up on the bar, the rear one down in the bodywork near the pedal. Many NC750X models in this generation are also fitted with ABS, which adds a hydraulic unit into the plumbing but does not change the basic bleed procedure at the calipers.
That last point matters. A routine flush—pushing fresh fluid through the caliper bleeders until the old stuff is gone—works fine on an ABS-equipped NC750X. What a home bleed will not do is purge air that has migrated inside the ABS modulator itself. If the reservoir ever ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected during other work, the bike needs a dealer-level procedure. Keep that in mind as you read the rest of this guide.
When the Fluid Needs to Go
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a fluid that boils under hard, repeated braking creates vapor in the lines—which feels exactly like a spongy lever and costs you stopping power right when you need it. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong.
On the symptom side, watch for a lever that feels soft or that pulls noticeably closer to the grip than it used to, a rear pedal with a vague, mushy feel, or fluid in either reservoir that has gone dark, cloudy, or gritty. Any job that opened the hydraulic system—new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work—also demands a bleed afterward, because air gets in the moment the system is breached.
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type, and do not use a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to hang it in. Clear tubing lets you see the bubbles and the color change.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but genuinely helpful for a solo job: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.
Setting Up Safely
Get the NC750X upright and stable on a stand before you touch anything. For the front circuit, turn the handlebar so the reservoir on the bar sits level—an angled reservoir will spill the moment the cap comes off. Then drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, and a single drip left to sit can leave a permanent mark. If a spill does happen, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.
The Bleeding Procedure
Work through the front circuit first, then repeat the whole sequence at the rear. If your bike carries more than one front caliper, bleed them one at a time, starting with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path.
- Wipe the reservoir cap and the area around it clean so no dirt falls in, then remove the cap and diaphragm.
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave the bottom covered—never let the reservoir run dry, or you will pump air straight into the lines.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube runs upward from the bleeder before dropping to the bottle.
- Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder.
- Squeeze the front lever—or press the rear pedal—and hold it firm. Do not release it yet.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will push out through the tube. Watch for bubbles.
- Close the bleeder before you let the lever or pedal return. Releasing first draws air back in past the threads.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it off.
- Keep going until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and clear with no bubbles, then close the bleeder snugly—firm, but not so tight that you crush the seat or strip the threads.
Wrapping Up the Job
Once both circuits are bled, fill each reservoir to the level marking on the body, not past it. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap and snug the screws down evenly. Wipe down every surface that touched fluid, then look closely at the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for weeping or wetness. A bleeder that seeps after tightening needs attention before the bike moves.
Verifying the Result
Pull the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure on it. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally—a short, gentle stop or two will tell you far more than a static check.
When to Hand It Off
If the lever refuses to firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms up when you pump it, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. The same applies if you suspect air entered the ABS unit. Those situations call for equipment and procedures beyond a home garage, and brakes are not the system to gamble on.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2020 Honda NC750X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2020 Honda NC750X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2020 Honda NC750X Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2020 Honda NC750X Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2020 Honda NC750X Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
