Bleeding the Brakes on a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2
Shop parts for a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
What You Are Working With on the Sixty2
The 2020 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 stops with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so both the front lever and the rear pedal push fluid through a closed system to a caliper. That means both circuits can be bled at home with hand tools, and both benefit from a fluid refresh now and then. The front brake is operated by the lever on the right bar and fed from a reservoir mounted on the master cylinder; the rear is operated by the pedal on the right side and fed from its own small reservoir near the pedal. The two systems are independent, so you service them one at a time and a mistake on one does not contaminate the other.
Many 2020 Sixty2 models are fitted with an anti-lock braking system. If yours has it, a routine bleed through the caliper bleeder is still the normal way to refresh fluid and clear air from the lines and caliper. What you cannot do at home is purge air that has traveled up into the ABS pump itself — that happens when the reservoir runs dry, when a line is disconnected, or when the unit is serviced. If any of those apply, stop and take the bike to a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. This is not a linked or combined braking system, so the front lever works the front brake only and the rear pedal works the rear brake only.
Signs It Is Time, and Why It Matters
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a boiling fluid creates vapor in the lines — which feels exactly like air and behaves exactly as badly. That is why a bike can feel fine in normal riding and then go soft on a long descent or a hard repeated-braking session. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval rather than waiting for a symptom.
Bleed the brakes if the lever or pedal feels spongy, if the lever now comes closer to the grip than it used to, if the fluid in either reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or if you have just replaced a line, serviced a caliper, or done master cylinder work. Any job that opened the hydraulic system lets air in, and air must come out before the bike is ridden normally.
Tools and Supplies to Have Ready
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type, and do not use a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the valve.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to hang it in.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for lifting old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, either of which makes a one-person job much less fiddly.
Setting Up Before You Open Anything
Get the bike secure and upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebar until the reservoir on the master cylinder sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill. Lay rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir, because brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact. If a drop lands where it should not, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until the end of the job.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Open the reservoir cap and lift out the diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, leaving the bottom covered so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube's end stays submerged.
- Squeeze the lever (or press the pedal) and hold it. With the lever held, crack the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper, which is the single most common way a home bleed goes wrong.
- Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle, checking the reservoir level every few strokes and topping it up so it never runs low enough to pull air in.
- Keep going until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder and give the lever a feel.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn rather than trying to do both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest.
- Repeat the whole process on the rear circuit using the pedal and the rear caliper bleeder.
Finishing the Job Correctly
Tighten the bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — overtightening can damage the valve seat and create a leak that is far worse than the one you were trying to avoid. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then look closely at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for any weeping or dampness. A dry fitting after a few minutes of pressure is a good sign; a wet one means something needs attention before you ride.
Testing, and When to Hand It Over
With the bike still supported, spin each wheel and confirm the brake is not dragging. Then check feel: the lever and pedal should be firm and consistent, and should hold pressure without slowly sinking while you keep a steady squeeze on them. Take the bike to a quiet, safe area and test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.
If the lever will not firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms up after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, or if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. The same applies if the reservoir ran dry at any point on an ABS-equipped bike, or if you are simply not confident the system is air-free. Brakes are not the place to accept a maybe.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
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Shop Stands for a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
