How To Bleed 2020 Ducati Scrambler Icon Motorcycle Brakes

How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Icon

The 2020 Ducati Scrambler Icon uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is equipped with ABS. That means there is a front master cylinder at the lever, a rear master cylinder at the pedal, and a caliper at each wheel. Bleeding this bike is a manageable garage job when the system is due for fresh fluid or has picked up a little air during routine service. The ABS unit adds one important caveat: if the reservoir has run dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines have been opened, the job can move beyond a normal caliper bleed and should go to a shop with the right diagnostic equipment.

When to Bleed the Scrambler Icon’s Brakes

A spongy or soft front lever, a rear pedal that feels vague, or a lever that now pulls closer to the grip than it used to are all signs that air or old fluid is affecting the system. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another clear indicator. You should also bleed the brakes after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as installing new lines, servicing a caliper, or working on a master cylinder.

Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, and the 2020 Scrambler Icon is a good candidate for that routine because both brakes are hydraulic and easy to access.

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
• A catch bottle for the old fluid
• Rags or shop towels
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make the job easier for one person

Preparing the Bike and Protecting Surfaces

Support the Scrambler Icon securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the painted surfaces, plastics, and instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or turkey baster to take out most of the old fluid. Do not let the reservoir run dry at any point during the job. Keeping fluid above the low mark is the single most important habit for avoiding air being drawn into the system.

The Bleeding Procedure

Work on the front brake first, then repeat the same logic at the rear. The front lever and rear pedal operate independently on this model, so each hydraulic circuit is bled on its own.

1. With the front reservoir open, remove most of the old fluid, then refill with fresh fluid from a sealed container using the type marked on the reservoir cap.
2. Attach the clear tubing to the front bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Position the box-end wrench on the bleeder.
3. Squeeze and hold the front lever.
4. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn to let fluid and air escape through the tube.
5. Close the bleeder before releasing the lever. Releasing the lever with the bleeder open can pull air back into the caliper.
6. Release the lever slowly, then check the reservoir and top it off before continuing.
7. Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, and release sequence until fresh, clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube.
8. If you are ever bleeding a Scrambler variant with two front calipers, bleed each caliper in turn and start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
9. Move to the rear brake. Open the rear reservoir, remove most of the old fluid, and refill with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap.
10. Attach the clear tubing to the rear bleeder and route it into the catch bottle. Press and hold the rear pedal.
11. Open the rear bleeder about a quarter turn, let fluid and air out, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal. Repeat until the fluid is clean and free of bubbles, topping off the reservoir as needed.
12. When both circuits are done, close each bleeder snugly without overtightening, fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, and reinstall the diaphragm and cap.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

Clean any spilled fluid from the calipers, reservoirs, and surrounding surfaces. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings where the brake lines attach. A dry fitting after several lever or pedal applications is a good sign. If you see weeping fluid, stop and correct it before riding.

Make sure the reservoir caps and diaphragms are seated correctly. The diaphragm should not be pinched, and the cap should sit flush. Recheck the fluid level one last time after the system has settled.

Testing the Brakes Before Riding

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If either brake feels different from what you expect, stop and investigate rather than assuming it will improve on the road.

Troubleshooting and When to Take It to a Shop

If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, or if it firms up only after pumping, air is still in the system or fluid is being drawn in somewhere. Persistent bubbles, fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, or a lever that never feels consistent are reasons to stop and have the bike inspected.

Because this Scrambler Icon has ABS, a standard bleed through the caliper bleeders is generally enough to refresh fluid. But if the reservoir ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may have entered the ABS unit itself. That situation may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, so it is best handled by a shop. This model is not a linked-brake system, so the front and rear circuits are bled independently; if you are ever working on a linked-brake bike, those systems have more bleed points and a required sequence, and a shop is the safer choice.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.