How To Bleed 2020 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle

The 2020 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is equipped with ABS. The front and rear circuits are separate, so you bleed them independently. That makes a home fluid refresh and air removal job manageable for a rider with moderate mechanical confidence, provided you respect two rules: brake fluid damages paint and plastic quickly, and the reservoir must never run dry while you are bleeding. This MotoSport guide walks through the job specifically for this model.

When a Brake Bleed Is Due

A spongy or soft lever or pedal is the classic sign that air is in the hydraulic system. So is a lever that now pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a pedal that feels longer and less positive. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another reason to act, even if the brakes still feel acceptable. You should also bleed after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That lowers its boiling point, which can lead to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule even without symptoms, because clean fluid is cheap insurance for a safety-critical system. On the 2020 Scrambler Full Throttle, the ABS unit does not change the basic caliper bleed for routine fluid replacement, but it does mean you should not let the reservoir run dry.

Tools and Supplies to Stage First

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
• A catch bottle for old fluid
• Rags or shop towels
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier for one person, but neither is required. Clear tubing is important because it lets you watch the fluid and any air bubbles as they leave the caliper.

Preparation and Paint Protection

Support the bike securely upright on a stand. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Set out your catch bottle and route the clear tubing so it cannot flop into the bike or pull the bleeder sideways. Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and set them where they will not pick up grit. Work in a well-ventilated area, and keep fresh fluid sealed until you are ready to pour it.

Bleeding Procedure: Front Then Rear

1. With the bike upright and the front reservoir level, remove the cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but do not let the reservoir run dry.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the container sealed when you are not pouring.
3. Attach the clear tubing to the front bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle. Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder.
4. Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm. Do not pump it repeatedly; hold steady pressure.
5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape through the tubing. Watch the tube for bubbles and for the color of the fluid.
6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. This is the critical order: close first, then release. Releasing with the bleeder open can draw air back into the system.
7. Release the lever slowly, then check the reservoir level and top it off with fresh fluid. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube.
8. Keep topping off the reservoir throughout the process. If it runs low enough to draw air, you will have to start over and may need to chase air through the system.
9. Move to the rear brake and repeat the same sequence with the pedal: press and hold, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, close it before releasing the pedal, then top off the reservoir.
10. If a circuit has more than one caliper, bleed each caliper in turn and begin with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. Work one bleeder at a time and keep the reservoir topped off between steps.
11. After the final bleed, close the bleeder snugly. Do not overtighten it; snug is enough to seal without damaging the bleeder or caliper.

Finishing the Job

Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, then reinstall the diaphragm and cap. Clean any spilled fluid from the caliper, bleeder, reservoir, and surrounding surfaces. Check for leaks at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings. A dry fitting after a few firm lever or pedal applications is what you want to see.

Because this Scrambler is ABS-equipped, a standard bleed through the caliper bleeders is generally used to refresh fluid. If the reservoir ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may have entered the ABS unit itself. That situation may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, so the bike should go to a shop rather than being bled further at home.

Testing Before You Ride

The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If anything feels vague, soft, or inconsistent, stop and investigate before trusting the bike on the road.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

A lever that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, a lever that firms up only after pumping, persistent air bubbles, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper all point to a problem that needs more than a simple bleed. Any situation where air may have entered an ABS unit is also a shop-level concern. If you are not confident that the system is sealed and free of air, have the bike inspected by a qualified technician before riding.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.