How to Bleed the Brakes on Your 2020 Ducati Scrambler Desert Sled
Shop parts for a 2020 Ducati Scrambler Desert Sled Motorcycle.
The 2020 Ducati Scrambler Desert Sled uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is equipped with ABS. The front and rear systems are separate hydraulic circuits, so you will service them one at a time. A normal fluid flush and bleed through the caliper bleeder valves is the right approach for routine maintenance and for removing air that has entered at the caliper or line. If air has been allowed into the ABS unit itself—for example, because the reservoir ran dry or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected—the bike may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Do not try to force that situation at home.
When a Bleed Is Due
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, even in a sealed system. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to fade when the brakes are worked hard. You do not need a failed component to justify a bleed. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir, a lever that feels soft or spongy, a lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a pedal that feels less firm are all signs to service the system. A bleed is also required after work that opened the hydraulic circuit, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Many riders refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, even when the brakes still feel acceptable.
Tools and Supplies to Gather
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
- A small catch bottle for used fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder, which can make the job easier for one person
Use only fluid from a sealed container, and do not reuse fluid that has been bled out. Brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact, so keep rags handy and wipe up spills immediately. If fluid reaches painted or plastic surfaces, rinse the area with water promptly.
Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish
Support the Desert Sled securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. Turn the handlebars so the front master cylinder reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the area around the reservoir, the instrument cluster, and any painted or plastic surfaces with rags. If you are servicing the rear circuit, locate the rear reservoir and keep it level as well. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm carefully, and set them on a clean rag. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but do not let the reservoir run dry at any point during the job.
Bleeding the Front and Rear Brakes
Work through the front circuit first, then repeat the same basic process at the rear. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout. The goal is to push fresh fluid through the system while carrying air and old fluid out through the bleeder.
- Remove most of the old fluid from the front reservoir, then refill it with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap.
- Fit the clear tubing snugly over the front caliper bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle.
- Squeeze and hold the front brake lever firmly.
- Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn and let fluid and any air escape through the tubing.
- Close the bleeder valve before you release the lever. Do not release the lever while the bleeder is open, or air can be drawn back in.
- Release the lever, check the reservoir level, and top it off with fresh fluid.
- Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until clean, fresh fluid with no bubbles comes through the tubing.
- Top off the front reservoir to the correct level marking, then reinstall the diaphragm and cap.
- Move to the rear circuit. Remove most of the old fluid from the rear reservoir and refill it with fresh fluid.
- Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder valve and route it into the catch bottle.
- Press and hold the rear brake pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal.
- Repeat until the fluid at the rear bleeder runs clean and bubble-free, topping off the rear reservoir as needed.
If your bike is fitted with more than one front caliper, bleed each caliper in turn, starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder. On this Desert Sled, treat the front and rear circuits separately and do not let either reservoir drop low enough to draw air into the system.
Finishing the Job
When clean fluid is flowing and no bubbles remain, tighten each bleeder valve snugly without overtightening. Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the caliper, reservoir, and surrounding surfaces. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings. A dry fitting after a bleed is a good sign; a wet fitting needs attention before the bike is ridden.
Test Before Riding
The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. With the bike upright and in a safe area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. If either brake feels different from what you expect, stop and investigate rather than assuming it will improve on the road.
Troubleshooting and When to Visit a Shop
A lever or pedal that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, a lever that firms up only after pumping, persistent bubbles in the tubing, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper all point to a problem that needs more diagnosis. Because this Desert Sled has ABS, any situation where air may have entered the ABS unit itself is best handled by a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. The same applies if you are unsure whether the system has been fully purged. Brakes are safety-critical, and a firm, consistent lever and pedal are the minimum standard before the bike goes back on the road.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
