How To Bleed 2019 Honda CBR1000RR ABS Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2019 Honda CBR1000RR ABS

Know the System Before You Open It

The 2019 CBR1000RR ABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and the anti-lock system is named right in the model designation. That gives you two separate hydraulic circuits to service: a front circuit fed by the master cylinder on the right clip-on, and a rear circuit fed by the pedal-actuated master cylinder. Each has its own reservoir, its own bleeder at the caliper, and its own lever or pedal feel to judge when you're done. A liter-class sportbike front end typically carries two calipers, so plan on working each front caliper in turn rather than treating the front as one point.

Because this bike has ABS, set a clear boundary before you start. A routine flush through the caliper bleeders is a normal garage job and is what this article covers. If air has entered the ABS modulator itself — the reservoir ran dry, the unit was removed, or a line was disconnected — the system may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to cycle the pump and purge that trapped air. That part is not a home-garage job, and no amount of lever pumping at the caliper will fix it.

When a Bleed Is Due

Reach for the tools when the front lever feels spongy or pulls closer to the grip than it used to, when the rear pedal feels soft or travels farther before it bites, or when the fluid visible in either reservoir has gone dark or cloudy. Any job that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work — also demands a bleed afterward, because air gets in the moment the system is breached.

Don't wait for symptoms, though. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time, and that moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point. On a bike like this one, which is capable of hard repeated braking, fluid that boils under load produces fade and a lever that goes long at exactly the wrong moment. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, and that habit pays off.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Don't substitute a different type and don't use a bottle that's been open and sitting on a shelf.
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder.
• A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a catch bottle to route the old fluid into.
• Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
• The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
• Optional but helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, either of which makes a solo job much less fiddly.

Setting Up Safely

Get the bike supported securely upright on a stand so it can't tip while you're working the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars so the reservoir on the clip-on sits level before you remove the cap — a tilted reservoir spills. Drape rags over the tank, the upper fairing, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir, because brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact. If a drop lands anyway, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than letting it sit.

The Bleeding Procedure

1. Open the reservoir cap and lift out the diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but stop before the bottom — never let the reservoir run dry, or you'll pull air straight into the master cylinder.
2. Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so you can watch fluid move through the tube.
4. Squeeze and hold the front lever, or press and hold the rear pedal. Hold the pressure steady.
5. With pressure held, crack the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air will push out through the tube.
6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first draws air back in through the open valve, which undoes the work you just did.
7. Repeat the squeeze, hold, crack, close, release cycle until clean, fresh, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it off as you go.
8. On the front, bleed one caliper at a time. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closer one, then repeat the far caliper once more if the lever still isn't firm.
9. Move to the rear circuit and repeat the same sequence with the pedal, using the rear caliper bleeder.

Finishing the Job

When the fluid runs clean at both ends, close each bleeder snugly. Snug is the goal — overtightening can crush the seat or strip the valve, and you don't want to discover that on the road. Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinders and calipers for any weeping or dampness.

Testing Before You Ride

The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes aren't dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. If anything feels vague at that first gentle application, stop and diagnose rather than heading out.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

If the lever won't firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms up after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, or if you find fluid leaking from a master cylinder or caliper, stop and get the bike looked at. The same applies if you suspect air reached the ABS unit. A brake system that won't hold pressure is not something to ride around the block to test.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Brake Tools for a 2019 Honda CBR1000RR ABS Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.