How To Bleed 2019 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2019 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2

Know Your Sixty2's Brake Layout First

The 2019 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 stops with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so both the front lever and the rear pedal push fluid through a closed system that can collect air and moisture over time. That means this job covers two separate hydraulic circuits, and each one gets bled on its own. The Sixty2 also came with an anti-lock braking system, which matters for one important reason: a routine flush through the caliper bleeders is fine, but if air has been allowed into the ABS unit itself, the pump and internal valves may need to be cycled with a diagnostic tool before that air will move. If you suspect that has happened, stop and take the bike to a shop rather than chasing a soft lever for an afternoon.

There is no linked or combined braking on this model, so the front lever works the front brake and the rear pedal works the rear brake. That keeps the procedure straightforward, but it also means you cannot skip one end because the other feels fine.

How to Tell a Bleed Is Due

The classic signal is a lever or pedal that feels spongy, or one that has to be pulled or pressed farther than it used to before the brakes bite. A lever that slowly sinks toward the grip while you hold steady pressure is another red flag. Pop the reservoir cap and look at the fluid: fresh brake fluid is clear and pale, while fluid that has gone dark, cloudy, or gritty is well past its useful life.

Any job that opened the hydraulic system also demands a bleed afterward — new brake lines, a caliper rebuild, master cylinder service, or a line that was cracked loose for any reason. Beyond symptoms, brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and under hard, repeated braking it can boil and create gas in the system, which shows up as a lever that goes soft exactly when you need it most. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval as preventive maintenance, and on a bike like the Sixty2 that sees spirited use, that habit pays off.

Tools and Supplies to Assemble

• Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — once a bottle is opened, it starts absorbing moisture, so use new stock
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
• Clear tubing sized to fit tightly over the bleeder nipple
• A small catch bottle for the old fluid
• Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
• The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job much less fiddly

Set Up Before You Open Anything

Get the bike secure and upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebar until the reservoir sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill the moment the cap comes off. Then drape rags over the tank or bodywork, the instrument cluster, and any painted or plastic surface near the reservoir and caliper. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so treat every drop as a problem: wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water if it reaches a finished surface.

The Bleeding Procedure

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little at the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
2. Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from your sealed container.
3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so you can watch fluid move through the tube.
4. Squeeze the lever (or press the pedal) and hold it. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. You will see fluid and any trapped air push out through the tube.
5. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper, which is the single most common way this job goes wrong.
6. Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle, checking the reservoir level every few strokes and topping it off so it never runs low enough to suck air in.
7. Keep going until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder.
8. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, finishing with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first as a general rule of thumb.
9. Move to the rear circuit and repeat the same sequence at the rear caliper, using the pedal instead of the lever.

Finishing the Job Correctly

Snug the bleeder down firmly without overtightening it — you are sealing against a small seat, and excess force can damage it. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down everything you touched. Then inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the caliper and master cylinder for any weeping or dampness. A leak here will undo all your work within a few rides.

Test Before You Ride

With the bike still stationary, pull the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should creep or sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. If the lever firms up only after several pumps, or never firms at all, air is still in the system — or it has reached the ABS unit, which is a shop job. Persistent bubbles, fluid weeping from the master cylinder or caliper, or a lever that will not hold pressure all point to the same conclusion: stop riding and have the system inspected professionally.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2019 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.

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Shop Stands for a 2019 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2019 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.