How To Bleed 2019 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle Motorcycle Brakes

How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2019 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle

Why the Full Throttle Needs a Brake Bleed

The 2019 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is equipped with ABS. That means the front lever and the rear pedal both push brake fluid through a sealed hydraulic system, and both sides can benefit from a proper bleed. Bleeding does two jobs: it removes air that makes the lever or pedal feel soft, and it replaces old fluid with fresh fluid so the system performs consistently when the brakes get hot.

You may notice a spongy lever, a lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, a rear pedal that feels vague, or fluid in the reservoir that looks dark or cloudy. A bleed is also the final step after work that opened the hydraulic system, such as installing a new brake line, servicing a caliper, or working on the master cylinder. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. Moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can lead to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule for that reason alone.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

Gather everything before you open the reservoir so you are not searching for a tool with the system exposed. Use fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, and make sure it comes from a sealed container. Do not substitute a fluid type based on guesswork.

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
• A catch bottle for used fluid
• Rags or shop towels
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the basic lever-and-bleeder method works fine with a helper or with patience.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish

Support the 2019 Scrambler Full Throttle securely upright on a stand. Turn the handlebars so the front master cylinder reservoir sits level before you remove the cap. Cover painted surfaces, plastic covers, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Work in a well-ventilated area and keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean. Dirt or moisture introduced at the reservoir can cause problems later. Also confirm that the bleeder valve is clean before you attach the tubing, so debris does not get pulled into the caliper when you open the bleeder.

Bleeding the Front Brake

The front brake is the primary system you will feel through the lever, so take your time and keep the reservoir from running dry. If your bike is fitted with more than one front caliper, treat each caliper as its own bleed point and bleed one at a time. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder if the layout gives you a choice.

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but do not let the reservoir run dry.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Leave enough room to reinstall the diaphragm later, but keep the level well above the lower mark during the job.
3. Push the clear tubing onto the front caliper bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. The tubing should fit snugly so air cannot enter around it.
4. Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it against the grip. Keep steady pressure on the lever.
5. Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air will move through the tubing into the catch bottle.
6. Close the bleeder valve before you release the lever. This order matters: releasing the lever with the bleeder open can draw air back into the system.
7. Release the lever, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence. Check the reservoir level often and top it off before it gets low.
8. Continue until the fluid coming through the tubing is fresh, clean, and free of bubbles. Keep the reservoir topped off throughout the process.
9. When the front brake feels firm and the fluid is clean, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

The rear brake on this model is also hydraulic, so it is bled rather than adjusted like a mechanical drum brake. The procedure is the same in principle, but you are working the rear pedal instead of the front lever. Keep the rear reservoir filled to its marking and protect the surrounding bodywork from fluid drips.

1. Confirm the rear reservoir is clean and filled with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap.
2. Attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder valve and route it into the catch bottle.
3. Press and hold the rear brake pedal.
4. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn, let fluid and air escape, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
5. Release the pedal and repeat. Top off the rear reservoir as needed so it never draws air.
6. Continue until the fluid is clean and bubble-free and the pedal feels firm and consistent.
7. Tighten the bleeder snugly without overtightening, then reinstall the reservoir diaphragm and cap.

Finishing, Testing, and ABS Notes

After bleeding both hydraulic brakes, fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the bike. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings. A dry fitting or a bleeder left loose will show up quickly as a wet spot or a soft lever.

Before riding, squeeze the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and neither should slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally.

Because this Full Throttle has ABS, a standard bleed through the caliper bleeders is generally used to refresh fluid. However, if air has entered the ABS unit itself—for example, if the reservoir ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected—the system may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Do not attempt to force a firm lever by repeated bleeding if you suspect air is trapped in the ABS unit. Take the bike to a shop.

Troubleshooting and When to Stop

If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, stop and reassess. A lever that firms up only after pumping usually points to air still in the system or a small leak. Persistent bubbles at the bleeder can mean the reservoir is being run too low, the tubing is not sealing, or the bleeder is being opened too far. Fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper is a sign that the job should go to a shop rather than being ridden out.

Also send the bike to a professional if you are unsure whether air entered the ABS unit, if a line or fitting was disturbed, or if the brake feel does not return to normal after a careful bleed. Brakes are a safety-critical system, and a firm, consistent lever and pedal are the confirmation that the job is complete.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.