Bleeding the Brakes on a 2018 Honda NC750X DCT ABS
Shop parts for a 2018 Honda NC750XDCTABS Motorcycle.
What This Job Involves on Your NC750X DCT ABS
The 2018 Honda NC750X DCT ABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is an ABS-equipped machine. That means you have two hydraulic circuits to service — a front circuit fed by the lever-mounted master cylinder and a rear circuit fed by the pedal master cylinder — and each one has its own reservoir, its own bleeder at the caliper, and its own fluid supply to keep an eye on. Bleeding is the process of pushing fresh fluid through each circuit while carrying trapped air and contaminated fluid out ahead of it. Done properly, it restores a firm lever and pedal and resets the fluid's moisture content to something closer to new.
Because this bike carries an ABS modulator, there is one important boundary to understand before you start. A routine flush through the caliper bleeders is a normal home-garage job. But if the ABS unit itself has swallowed air — because a reservoir ran dry, a line was disconnected, or the modulator was removed — the air can sit in a chamber that ordinary lever pumping will not clear. That situation calls for a dealer-level procedure or a diagnostic tool, and it is not something to improvise in a driveway.
Signs the System Needs Attention
A spongy lever or a rear pedal that feels vague and long is the classic symptom of air in the lines. So is a lever that used to bite early and now travels noticeably closer to the grip. Pop the reservoir cap and look at the fluid: fresh brake fluid is clear and nearly colorless, while fluid that has been in service for a few seasons turns amber, then dark, and may look cloudy or carry visible debris.
Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. Water in the fluid lowers its boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking that can translate into fade or a lever that goes soft exactly when you need it most. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval as preventive maintenance. Bleeding is also mandatory after any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a six-point box end grips better than an open end and is less likely to round the bleeder.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a catch bottle to hang it in.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but genuinely helpful for solo work: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.
Setting Up Before You Open Anything
Get the bike supported securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir on the master cylinder sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill. Lay rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything painted below the reservoir and calipers. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so treat every drip as urgent: wipe it immediately and rinse the area with water if it reaches a painted surface.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but stop before the port at the bottom is exposed. Never let the reservoir run dry at any point in this job.
- Refill with fresh fluid from your sealed container, leaving the reservoir at roughly its normal level.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, positioned so you can watch the fluid as it comes out.
- Squeeze the lever and hold it firm (or press and hold the pedal for the rear circuit). Do not release it yet.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch for bubbles.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper, which undoes your work.
- Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle, topping off the reservoir every few cycles so the level never drops far enough to pull air in. Continue until the fluid arriving in the tube is clean and free of bubbles.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, one at a time, rather than trying to do both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then move to the closer one.
- Move to the rear circuit and repeat the same sequence with the pedal, using the rear reservoir and rear bleeder.
Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks
When clean, bubble-free fluid is flowing at each bleeder, close the valve snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — do not lean on it, because overtightening can damage the seat and cause a leak. Fill the reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinders and calipers for weeping or dampness. A dry fitting after a few minutes of pressure is what you want to see.
Testing Before You Ride Normally
With the bike still supported, squeeze the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, apply the front and rear brakes separately and together before riding in traffic. If anything feels soft or inconsistent, stop and investigate rather than riding it out.
When to Stop and Hand It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several full bleeding passes, if it only firms up after repeated pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, something is admitting air or the ABS modulator is holding it. Fluid weeping from a master cylinder or caliper, or any suspicion that the ABS unit has ingested air, are both reasons to stop and book the bike in. On a safety-critical system, knowing when to hand over the job is part of doing it right.
Related Shopping Categories
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.