How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2
Shop parts for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Know the System Before You Open It
The 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 uses a hydraulic disc brake at each end of the bike. Up front, a single caliper is fed by a master cylinder mounted on the handlebar; out back, a single caliper is fed by a pedal-driven master cylinder tucked into the frame. The two circuits are completely separate — there is no linked or combined function on this machine, so bleeding the front has no effect on the rear and vice versa. Each side gets its own reservoir, its own bleeder, and its own session with the wrench.
Because the Sixty2 is a simple, conventional setup, a home mechanic with basic hand tools can handle a fluid flush and an air purge without drama. If your particular bike is fitted with an ABS module, a routine refresh through the caliper bleeder is still the normal service and the procedure below still applies. What changes is the situation where air has been pulled into the ABS unit itself — that is a shop job, and it is covered at the end of this article.
Recognizing When the Brakes Need Attention
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a fluid that boils under hard, repeated braking creates vapor in the lines — which feels exactly like air and produces the same mushy, unreliable lever. This is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong yet.
On the Sixty2 specifically, watch for a front lever that feels soft or spongy, or one that now comes noticeably closer to the grip than it did when the bike was new. The rear pedal can go the same way, feeling long and vague before it bites. Pop the reservoir cap and look at the fluid: fresh fluid is clear and pale, while tired fluid turns dark, cloudy, or tea-colored, and sediment may be visible in the bottom of the reservoir. Any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, a caliper rebuild, master cylinder service, or a bike that sat with a low reservoir — also demands a proper bleed before the bike goes back on the road.
Tools and Supplies to Assemble
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different specification, and do not use a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a catch bottle to hang it in. Clear tubing lets you see the bubbles, which is half the diagnostic value of the job.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling the old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but genuinely helpful for a solo mechanic: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, either of which removes the need to coordinate the lever and the wrench perfectly on every stroke.
Setting Up the Bike and Protecting the Finish
Get the Sixty2 upright and stable on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning over the bars. For the front circuit, turn the handlebar until the reservoir on the master cylinder sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill fluid the moment the cap comes off. Drape rags over the tank, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir, because brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact. If a drop does land somewhere it shouldn't, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until the end of the job.
Set the catch bottle somewhere it will not get knocked over, and route the clear tube so it runs with a gentle downward slope from the bleeder. A tube that loops upward traps fluid and makes it hard to tell whether the bubbles you see are coming from the caliper or just sitting in the line.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little in the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and drop the other end into the catch bottle.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it against the grip. For the rear, press and hold the pedal down.
- With the lever or pedal held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first draws air back in through the open valve, which undoes the work you just did.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly, then repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle. Check the reservoir every few strokes and top it off — letting it run dry is the single most common way a simple bleed turns into a long one.
- Keep cycling until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and bright and you see no bubbles at all, then a few more strokes for good measure.
- Move to the other circuit and repeat the whole process with its own reservoir, bleeder, and lever or pedal. If your bike carries two front calipers, bleed them one at a time rather than trying to do both at once.
As a general habit, start with the caliper farthest from its master cylinder and work toward the closest one, since that is where the oldest fluid and the most stubborn air tend to collect.
Closing Up and Checking Your Work
Snug the bleeder down firmly with the box-end wrench — tight enough that it will not weep, but not so tight that you crush the seat or round the hex. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then look closely at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings at both the master cylinder and the caliper for any sign of weeping or a wet film. A dry paper towel pressed against each joint will tell you quickly whether anything is seeping.
Testing Before You Ride Normally
The front lever should come up firm and consistent, and the rear pedal should feel solid through its travel. Hold steady pressure on each for a slow count of twenty: neither should creep toward the grip or the floor. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brake is not dragging, then take the bike to an empty lot and test at walking pace, then at low speed, before riding in traffic.
When to Hand the Job to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several honest attempts, if it only firms after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, stop and get the bike looked at. The same applies to fluid weeping from the master cylinder or caliper, and to any situation where the reservoir ran dry or the ABS unit or its lines were disturbed — air trapped inside an ABS module generally needs a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to clear properly.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
