Bleeding the Brakes on a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle

Shop parts for a 2018 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle Motorcycle.

The 2018 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is equipped with ABS. That means the front lever and the rear pedal each operate a hydraulic circuit that can be bled at the caliper bleeder when you are refreshing fluid or removing air. Routine bleeding through the calipers is the normal approach for this bike, but the ABS unit changes the conversation if the reservoir has run dry or the system has been opened near the ABS hardware. This guide walks through a careful bleed for the Full Throttle and points out the situations where the job should go to a shop.

When the Brakes Need Bleeding

A soft or spongy front lever, a rear pedal that feels vague, or a lever that now pulls closer to the grip than it used to are all signs that air or old fluid is affecting the system. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid in the reservoir is another reason to act. Bleeding is also due after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as installing new brake lines, servicing a caliper, or replacing master cylinder components.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard use. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule even when the brakes still feel acceptable. If the lever slowly sinks while you hold steady pressure, stop riding and inspect the system rather than assuming a simple bleed will fix it.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
  • Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
  • A catch bottle for used fluid
  • Rags or shop towels
  • A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the basic lever-and-bleeder method works fine with patience. Use only fluid from a freshly opened container, and confirm the required fluid type on the reservoir cap before you begin.

Preparation Before Opening the System

Support the Scrambler securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you remove the cap. Cover painted surfaces, plastic panels, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Have your catch bottle positioned before you open anything, and keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and close at hand. Work through one circuit at a time so you do not lose track of which reservoir has been topped off.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

  1. Remove the front reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid, but leave enough at the bottom that you do not introduce air into the master cylinder.
  2. Refill the front reservoir with fresh fluid to the level marking. Keep the cap nearby, but do not seal the reservoir yet.
  3. Fit the box-end wrench onto the front caliper bleeder. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the tube end submerged in a little fluid if possible.
  4. Squeeze the front lever several times slowly, then hold it firmly. Do not release the lever while the bleeder is open.
  5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape through the tube. Close the bleeder before the lever reaches the grip or before you release it.
  6. Release the lever slowly, then repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, and release sequence. Top off the reservoir every few cycles so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
  7. Continue until fresh, clean fluid with no bubbles comes through the tube. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, starting with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
  8. When the front circuit is done, tighten the bleeder snugly without overtightening. Refill the reservoir to the correct level, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid.
  9. Move to the rear circuit. Remove the rear reservoir cap and diaphragm, remove most of the old fluid, and refill with fresh fluid. Attach the tube to the rear caliper bleeder.
  10. Press and hold the rear pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal. Repeat while keeping the rear reservoir topped off, and continue until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free.
  11. Tighten the rear bleeder snugly, refill the rear reservoir to the level marking, and reinstall the diaphragm and cap. Clean any fluid from the caliper, reservoir, and surrounding parts.

Finishing Checks and Testing

With both circuits closed and topped off, check the bleeder valves and banjo fittings for weeping or wetness. The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging.

Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area. If either brake feels soft, pulls to the grip, or does not stop the bike confidently, do not ride it. Recheck for leaks and repeat the bleed only if you are confident the reservoir never ran dry and no air entered the ABS unit.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

A lever or pedal that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, a lever that firms only after pumping, persistent bubbles in the tube, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper are reasons to stop and have the system inspected. Because this Full Throttle has ABS, air trapped in the ABS unit is the main situation that can exceed home garage tools. If the reservoir ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, the system may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Do not guess at an ABS bleed sequence. Send the bike to a qualified shop so the brakes are returned to safe operation.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.