Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Honda NC700X: A Rider’s Step-by-Step Guide

Shop parts for a 2017 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Know Your NC700X’s Brake Layout First

The 2017 Honda NC700X stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so this is a two-circuit job. The front lever on the right handlebar pushes a master cylinder mounted at the bar, which sends pressure down a line to the front caliper. The right-foot pedal works a completely separate master cylinder and line feeding the rear caliper. Because both ends are hydraulic, both get bled — there is no cable-operated drum hiding anywhere on this bike to skip over.

Many 2017 NC700X models were delivered with ABS. If your bike carries it, a routine fluid flush through the caliper bleeder works exactly like it does on a non-ABS machine, provided no air has worked its way into the ABS modulator itself. That distinction matters: if the reservoir ever ran dry while you were working, or a line or the ABS unit was disconnected, air can sit somewhere a hand bleed will never push it out. In that case the bike needs a shop with the correct diagnostic equipment to cycle the pump and purge the unit. If your particular NC700X has two front calipers rather than one, treat each caliper as its own bleeding job and finish one completely before moving to the other.

When a Bleed Is Actually Due

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid’s boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking the fluid can boil and create gas in the system — the classic symptom being a lever that goes soft or long just when you need it most. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong.

On top of the calendar, bleed the NC700X when the lever pulls closer to the grip than it used to, when the pedal feels spongy or travels further than normal, when the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or after any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Any of those events lets air in, and air compresses where fluid does not.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is less likely to round the valve.
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to route it into.
  • Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
  • Optional but genuinely helpful for a solo job: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.

Setting Up the Bike and Protecting the Finish

Get the NC700X upright and stable on a stand before you touch anything. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level — a tilted reservoir lets fluid spill the moment the cap comes off. Then drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, and a drip you notice ten minutes later may already have left a mark. If a spill does happen, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until the job is done.

Bleeding the Front Brake, Step by Step

  1. Wipe the reservoir cap and the area around it clean so grit does not fall in, then remove the cap and the diaphragm.
  2. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, leaving a small amount in the bottom so you do not introduce air at the master cylinder.
  3. Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
  4. Push the clear tubing onto the front bleeder valve and drop the other end into the catch bottle. Keep the bottle below the caliper so gravity helps.
  5. Slide the box-end wrench onto the bleeder.
  6. Squeeze the front lever slowly and smoothly, then hold it in.
  7. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not the lever.
  8. Close the bleeder fully before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper.
  9. Let the lever return slowly, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle.
  10. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it off. Never let it drop low enough to pull air into the master cylinder — that turns a twenty-minute job into a long one.
  11. Keep cycling until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then do a final pass with the lever held firm to confirm no air remains.

If your bike has two front calipers, repeat the whole sequence on the second caliper. As a general habit, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of line length and work back toward the closest one.

Bleeding the Rear Brake the Same Way

  1. Clean the rear reservoir cap area, open it, and draw out most of the old fluid.
  2. Refill with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap.
  3. Fit the clear tubing over the rear bleeder and route it to the catch bottle.
  4. Press and hold the brake pedal, open the bleeder a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal.
  5. Repeat, topping the reservoir as you go, until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free.
  6. Keep the pedal pressed at the end of the last cycle while you close the bleeder for the final time.

Finishing Up and Testing Before You Ride

Tighten the bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench — firm, not forced. Overtightening can damage the valve seat and create a leak where there wasn’t one. Fill the reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at both ends for weeping or dampness.

Before riding, the lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, and should hold pressure without slowly sinking while you keep a steady squeeze on them. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then test at low speed in a safe, empty area before riding normally.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

If the lever will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms up after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you cycle, something else is wrong — a worn master cylinder seal, a pinhole in a line, or air trapped in an ABS unit. Fluid weeping from the master cylinder or caliper is another stop sign. Any situation where air may have entered an ABS modulator, or where the bike has a combined braking system with additional bleed points and a required sequence, is best handed to a shop rather than guessed at. Brakes are not the system to learn by trial and error.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Brake Tools for a 2017 Honda NC700X Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.