Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Honda NC700X DCT ABS
Shop parts for a 2017 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
The 2017 Honda NC700X DCT ABS stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and both circuits are bled the same way: at the caliper bleeder valve, with the reservoir open and monitored. The ABS badge on the tail tells you there is a modulator sitting between the master cylinder and the caliper, and that changes one thing only — if air has reached the modulator itself, the job stops being a garage job. The DCT part of the model name refers to the transmission and has no bearing on the brake hydraulics. Everything below applies to the front lever circuit and the rear pedal circuit.
Confirm What You Are Bleeding
Before you touch anything, look at the bike as it sits. The front brake is operated by the lever on the right handlebar, with its reservoir mounted on the bar. The rear brake is operated by the pedal on the right side, with its own small reservoir tucked into the bodywork near the right footpeg area. Both are hydraulic, both have a bleeder at the caliper, and both need attention if you are flushing the system.
Because this bike carries ABS, understand the limit up front. A routine flush — pushing fresh fluid through the caliper bleeder — is a normal home job and does not require cycling the ABS pump. But if the reservoir ever ran dry while you were working, if a line or the modulator was disconnected, or if the system was opened for caliper service, air can be trapped inside the ABS unit where a hand bleed will not reach it. That situation calls for a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Hand the bike to a shop rather than chasing a soft lever for an afternoon.
When a Bleed Is Actually Due
Bleed when the lever or pedal feels spongy, when the lever travels closer to the grip than it used to, when the fluid in either reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or after any work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Even with no symptoms, brake fluid pulls moisture out of the air over time, and that moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point. A system that feels fine in traffic can fade under hard, repeated use on a hot descent. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval as cheap insurance.
Tools and Supplies to Gather
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — never from a bottle that has been open and sitting on a shelf
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
- Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, which makes a one-person job much less fiddly
Set Up Before You Open Anything
Get the bike upright and stable on a stand so the reservoirs sit level. For the front, turn the handlebars until the reservoir on the bar is horizontal. Drape rags over the bodywork, the instrument cluster, and any painted surface below the reservoirs — brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact. If a drop lands where it should not, wipe it immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the fresh fluid container capped between pours, and keep the old fluid in the catch bottle, not on the floor.
The Bleeding Procedure
- Wipe the reservoir cap and the area around it clean so grit cannot fall in, then remove the cap and the diaphragm.
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough to cover the port at the bottom — do not let the reservoir run dry.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube end stays submerged.
- Squeeze the lever (or press the pedal) and hold it. With the lever held, crack the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back in through the valve.
- Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle, checking the reservoir level every few strokes and topping it off. Never let the level drop far enough to pull air into the master cylinder.
- Keep going until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder snugly — firm, not cranked down hard.
If your bike has two front calipers, bleed them one at a time, finishing one completely before moving to the other. As a general habit, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then work toward the closest.
Doing the Rear Circuit
The rear follows the same sequence with the pedal instead of the lever. The rear reservoir is smaller, so check its level more often — it takes very few strokes to empty. Work the pedal through the same hold-open-close-release rhythm, and keep the tubing submerged in the catch bottle so you can watch for bubbles.
Finishing and Verifying the Job
Fill each reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Look closely at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for weeping or dampness, and recheck after the bike has sat for a while. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging.
Then test the feel: the lever and pedal should be firm and consistent, and should hold pressure without slowly sinking. Ride at low speed in a safe, empty area and apply each brake separately before riding normally. If a lever refuses to firm up after several rounds, if it only firms up after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if you see fluid at the master cylinder or caliper, stop and diagnose — and if air may have entered the ABS unit, take the bike to a shop.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2017 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
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Shop Brake Pads for a 2017 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
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Shop Brake Tools for a 2017 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
