How To Bleed 2017 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2

The 2017 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is equipped with ABS. That means the front lever and rear pedal both act on fluid-filled circuits, and a proper bleed refreshes old fluid while purging air that can make the brakes feel soft or inconsistent. On an ABS-equipped bike, a normal bleed through the caliper bleeder valves is generally the right approach for routine fluid service. If air has entered the ABS unit itself—for example, because the reservoir ran dry or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected—the system may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, and the bike should go to a shop rather than being bled further at home.

When the Sixty2 Is Ready for a Bleed

Bleeding is due when the front lever feels spongy, pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or slowly sinks under steady pressure. The rear pedal can show the same symptoms: a soft, long, or vague feel instead of a firm stop. Dark or cloudy fluid in either reservoir is another clear sign that fresh fluid is overdue. A bleed is also necessary after any work that opened the hydraulic system, including new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.

Even when the brakes feel normal, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, not only after a problem appears. On the Sixty2, treat the front and rear systems as separate hydraulic circuits that both deserve attention.

Tools and Supplies to Have on Hand

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container.
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly.
• A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve.
• A catch bottle for used fluid.
• Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir.
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws.
• Water for rinsing any spilled fluid from painted or plastic surfaces.
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier.

Use only fluid from a freshly opened container, and do not reuse fluid that has been bled out. Brake fluid damages paint and many plastics on contact, so keep rags close and wipe up spills immediately.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish

Support the 2017 Ducati Scrambler Sixty2 securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the area around the reservoir, the instrument cluster, and any painted or plastic surfaces with rags. If fluid does contact paint or plastic, wipe it up right away and rinse the area with water.

Work in a well-ventilated space and keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean. Dirt or moisture introduced at the reservoir can create new problems, so set the cap face-up on a clean towel rather than dropping it on the floor.

Bleeding the Front and Rear Hydraulic Systems

The procedure is the same in principle for the front lever and rear pedal, but you must keep the two reservoirs separate and never let either one run dry. If you are working on a variant with two front calipers, bleed each caliper separately and start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. On this Sixty2, work through the front system first, then repeat the process at the rear.

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use a syringe or turkey baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough fluid in the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap, keeping it near the full level without overfilling. Set the diaphragm and cap aside in a clean place.
3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Keep the end of the tubing submerged in a little fluid in the bottle so air cannot be drawn back in.
4. For the front, squeeze the lever and hold it firmly. For the rear, press and hold the pedal. Maintain steady pressure while you open the bleeder.
5. Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air will flow through the tubing. Watch the tube, not the reservoir, while the bleeder is open.
6. Close the bleeder valve before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first can draw air back into the caliper. Then release the lever or pedal slowly.
7. Check the reservoir level and top it off with fresh fluid. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle until clean, fresh fluid runs through the tubing with no bubbles.
8. Keep topping off the reservoir throughout the process. If the reservoir runs low enough to draw air, you will have to start over and may need a shop if the ABS unit is involved.
9. Move to the rear system and repeat the same sequence with the pedal, using its own reservoir and bleeder valve. Finish by closing the bleeder snugly without overtightening it.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

Once clean fluid runs bubble-free at each bleeder, top the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid. Check the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for weeping or wetness. A dry fitting after several firm lever or pedal applications is what you want to see. Tighten the bleeder snugly, but do not force it; overtightening can damage the caliper threads.

Test Before Riding Normally

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If either brake feels different from what you expect, stop and investigate before heading into traffic.

When to Take the Sixty2 to a Shop

A lever or pedal that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, one that firms only after pumping, persistent air bubbles, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper are reasons to stop and have the bike inspected. Because this Sixty2 has ABS, any situation where air may have entered the ABS unit—especially a reservoir that ran dry or disconnected ABS lines—should go to a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. A firm, consistent brake feel after a low-speed test is the confirmation that the job is complete.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.