Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Ducati Scrambler Icon

Shop parts for a 2017 Ducati Scrambler Icon Motorcycle.

Know Your Scrambler’s Brake Layout Before You Start

The 2017 Ducati Scrambler Icon uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is fitted with ABS. That gives you two independent hydraulic circuits to service: a front system fed by the master cylinder on the right handlebar, and a rear system fed by a master cylinder actuated by the pedal. Each circuit is bled separately, and each has its own reservoir and bleeder valve at the caliper.

The ABS module sits between the master cylinders and the calipers, and it is the one component in this job that deserves caution. Refreshing fluid through the caliper bleeders is well within reach of a rider with basic hand tools and moderate confidence. Purging air that has worked its way into the ABS unit itself is a different matter — that typically requires a dealer-level procedure or a diagnostic tool. If the reservoir has run dry, or if a line or the module has been disconnected, plan on a shop visit rather than trying to force it in the garage.

When a Bleed Is Actually Due

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid’s boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking it can turn to vapor in the caliper, giving you a lever that goes soft exactly when you need it most. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval even when nothing feels wrong, and that is a reasonable habit on a bike like this.

Bleed immediately if the lever or pedal feels spongy, if the lever now travels closer to the grip than it used to, if the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or if you have just completed work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Any of those situations means air is likely in the circuit.

Tools and Supplies to Have on the Bench

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
  • A small catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job easier

Clear tubing matters more than it sounds. Being able to see the fluid as it comes out is how you confirm that the bubbles have stopped and that fresh fluid has arrived.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish

Get the Scrambler Icon securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level, since a tilted reservoir will spill as soon as you open it. Then drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir.

Brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact, so treat every drip as urgent: wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the cap on the reservoir whenever you are not actively adding fluid.

Bleeding the Front Brake, Step by Step

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out. Leave enough in the bottom that you do not introduce air at the master cylinder port.
  2. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, taking care not to splash.
  3. Slip the clear tubing over the front caliper bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle with the tube’s end submerged.
  4. Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder.
  5. Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm.
  6. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let the fluid and air escape. You will feel the lever travel toward the grip.
  7. Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper.
  8. Release the lever slowly and repeat. Keep an eye on the reservoir and top it off every few cycles — letting it run dry is the single most common way a simple bleed turns into a shop visit.
  9. Continue until the fluid coming through the tubing is clean, bright, and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder.

If your bike carries two front calipers, bleed them one at a time rather than trying to do both at once. The general practice is to start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest, which helps push trapped air along in the right direction.

Bleeding the Rear Circuit

The rear follows the same logic with a different actuator. Open the rear reservoir, remove most of the old fluid, and top it with fresh. Attach the tubing to the rear caliper bleeder, then press and hold the pedal, crack the bleeder, let fluid out, and close it before releasing the pedal. Repeat until the flow is clean and bubble-free, keeping the reservoir topped off throughout. The rear reservoir is small and easy to drain without noticing, so check it after every few pumps.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

Once both circuits run clean, tighten each bleeder snugly. Snug is the goal — not gorilla-tight, which can damage the seat and cause a leak. Fill each reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface that saw fluid. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinders and calipers for weeping or wetness.

Test Before You Ride

Both the lever and the pedal should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally. If the lever firms up only after several pumps, or refuses to firm up at all, stop and diagnose rather than riding. Persistent bubbles, fluid weeping from a caliper or master cylinder, or any suspicion that air entered the ABS unit all point to a shop visit — that is the right call on a safety-critical system.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.