How To Bleed 2017 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle

What the 2017 Full Throttle’s Brake Layout Means for This Job

The 2017 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is equipped with ABS. That means you have a front master cylinder at the lever and a rear master cylinder at the pedal, with hydraulic fluid doing the work at each wheel. A normal bleed through the caliper bleeder valves is the right approach for refreshing fluid and removing air that has entered through routine service. The ABS unit does not change the basic lever-and-bleeder routine for a simple fluid flush, but it does raise the stakes if the reservoir has run dry or if ABS lines or the ABS unit itself have been opened. In that situation, air can be trapped where a caliper bleed will not reach it, and the bike should go to a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.

When a Bleed Is Due—and Why It Matters

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. That lowers its boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard or repeated use, even when the bike feels fine in normal riding. A soft or spongy lever, a lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, a pedal that feels vague, or dark and cloudy fluid in the reservoir are all signs that fresh fluid and a proper bleed are due. The same applies after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Many riders also refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance, without waiting for a symptom to appear.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
• A catch bottle for the old fluid
• Rags or shop towels
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the manual lever-and-bleeder method works well if you follow the sequence carefully.

Setting Up Safely Before You Open the System

Support the 2017 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastics, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and set them aside where they will not pick up grit.

Bleeding the Front and Rear Hydraulic Brakes

Work on one hydraulic circuit at a time. The front and rear have separate master cylinders, so each needs its own reservoir top-off and bleed. If a circuit has more than one caliper, bleed them one at a time, and follow the general practice of starting with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.

1. Open the reservoir for the circuit you are bleeding and use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap, leaving room for the diaphragm and cap to be reinstalled later.
3. Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle so you can watch the fluid and any air bubbles.
4. Squeeze and hold the front lever, or press and hold the rear pedal, and keep pressure on it.
5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn to let fluid and air escape through the tube.
6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first can draw air back into the system.
7. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean, bubble-free fluid comes through the tube.
8. Keep topping off the reservoir throughout the process so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
9. For the rear brake, repeat the same sequence using the rear pedal and rear reservoir. For the front, use the lever and front reservoir.
10. When the fluid runs clean and free of bubbles, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it.

Finishing, Leak Checks, and a Low-Speed Test

Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the bike. Check for leaks at the bleeder valve and at the banjo fittings. The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and make sure both ends slow the bike predictably.

If the Lever or Pedal Will Not Firm Up

A lever or pedal that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, one that firms up only after pumping, persistent air bubbles, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper are reasons to stop and diagnose rather than keep bleeding. Because this Full Throttle is ABS-equipped, any situation where air may have entered the ABS unit—such as a reservoir that ran dry or disconnected ABS lines—should go to a shop. A standard caliper bleed is fine for routine fluid refresh, but trapped air in the ABS unit may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool that is not part of a home bleed.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.