Bleeding the Brakes on a 2016 Honda NC700X DCT ABS
Shop parts for a 2016 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
The 2016 Honda NC700X DCT ABS runs hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and the ABS badge on the bodywork tells you there is an anti-lock modulator plumbed into the system. That combination is good news for a home mechanic: the front and rear circuits are conventional enough to bleed at the calipers with basic hand tools, provided you understand what the ABS unit does and does not allow you to do in a garage. This guide walks through a full fluid flush and air removal on both circuits, from setup to the low-speed test ride.
When a Bleed Is Due
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, and a boiling fluid creates vapor that behaves exactly like air in the lines — the lever goes soft and braking performance drops away right when you need it most. On a bike like the NC700X, which many owners use for commuting and long-distance touring, that heat cycles through the calipers repeatedly. Even if nothing feels wrong, refreshing the fluid on a regular interval is cheap insurance.
Watch for the symptoms as well. A front lever that feels spongy or pulls closer to the grip than it used to, a rear pedal with a mushy, indefinite feel, or fluid in either reservoir that looks dark, cloudy, or contaminated with debris all point to a bleed being overdue. Any job that opened the hydraulic system — new brake lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or a reservoir that ran dry — requires bleeding afterward before the bike is ridden.
Tools and Supplies to Gather
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
- Clear tubing sized to fit tightly over the bleeder nipple
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for emptying the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, which makes a solo job much easier
Because the NC700X DCT ABS has two hydraulic circuits, plan on working through the front first and the rear second, or the reverse — just finish one completely before opening the other reservoir.
Setting Up Safely
Get the bike on a stand so it sits securely upright, and turn the handlebars until the front reservoir is level. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so drape rags over the tank area, the fairing panels, and the instrument cluster before you loosen anything. If a drop does land on a painted surface, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until the end of the job.
Bleeding the Front Circuit
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out. Leave a little in the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
- Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, keeping the level well above the minimum as you work.
- Slip the clear tubing over the front bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle with a little fluid already inside to seal it.
- Fit the box-end wrench on the bleeder. Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the valve open draws air back in through the nipple.
- Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle, topping off the reservoir every few strokes, until clean, bubble-free fluid flows through the tubing.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, finishing the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first and the closer one last.
Bleeding the Rear Circuit
The rear brake on this model is a hydraulic disc with its own master cylinder and reservoir, so it gets the same treatment. Keep the bike upright so the rear reservoir sits level, protect the surrounding bodywork, and repeat the same sequence using the rear pedal instead of the lever: press and hold the pedal, crack the bleeder, close it, then release. Work slowly and keep an eye on the reservoir level — the rear reservoir is small and easy to drain in a few strokes.
Finishing and Verifying the Job
Once clean fluid is flowing at both ends, snug the bleeder valves down firmly without overtightening — you want them sealed, not crushed. Fill each reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any residue. Check the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinders and calipers for weeping.
Now test the feel. The front lever and rear pedal should be firm and consistent, and should hold pressure without slowly sinking while you hold them. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe, empty area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.
When to Hand It Off to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms up when you pump it, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, stop and reassess. A lever that never comes good, fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, or any suspicion that air entered the ABS modulator — for instance, if a reservoir ran dry or a line was disconnected — means the bike should go to a shop. The ABS unit on this model may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to purge air from the modulator itself, and that is not a job to improvise in a home garage.
Related Shopping Categories
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
