How to Flush and Bleed the Brakes on a 2016 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle

Shop parts for a 2016 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle Motorcycle.

What This Job Covers on the Scrambler Full Throttle

The 2016 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and is equipped with ABS. You have a front hydraulic circuit and a rear hydraulic circuit, each with its own master cylinder, reservoir, line, and caliper. The ABS unit sits in the system, but for routine fluid replacement and air removal at the calipers, you can usually bleed through the caliper bleeder in the normal way. The important exception is air that has entered the ABS unit itself—more on that below. This job is about pushing fresh fluid through the system and expelling air, not replacing pads, rotors, or lines.

When Bleeding Is Needed—and Why It Matters

A spongy lever or a rear pedal that feels soft and long is the classic sign that air is in the hydraulic system. You may also notice the front lever creeping closer to the grip than it used to, or a pedal that firms up only after a couple of pumps. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid in the reservoir is another reason to act. Bleeding is also required after any work that opened the system: new brake lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or a repair that let the reservoir run low. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. Moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can lead to fade under hard or repeated braking. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
  • Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
  • A clean catch bottle for old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, which can make one-person bleeding easier

Preparation Before You Open the Hydraulic System

Support the 2016 Scrambler Full Throttle securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you remove the cap. For the rear circuit, make sure the bike is upright and the rear reservoir is level for the same reason. Brake fluid damages paint and many plastics on contact, so cover the tank or bodywork, the instrument area, and any painted surfaces around the reservoir and caliper with rags. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Work with the reservoir cap off only while you are actively bleeding, and keep the reservoir from running dry.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

  1. Clean the reservoir cap and surrounding area before opening it, then remove the cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir without letting the level drop low enough to pull air into the master cylinder.
  2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Leave enough air space for the diaphragm and cap to seat, but keep the level well above the lower mark.
  3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. The tubing must fit snugly to prevent air from being drawn back in.
  4. Fit the box-end wrench onto the bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the front lever, or press and hold the rear pedal, to build pressure. Do not release it yet.
  5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will move through the tubing. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first can draw air back into the caliper.
  6. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release cycle. Check the reservoir after every few cycles and top it off with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir run low enough to draw air.
  7. Continue until the fluid coming through the tubing is fresh, clean, and free of bubbles. Then close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it.
  8. If you are working on a front system with more than one caliper, bleed each caliper in turn. As a general rule, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. On the Scrambler, treat the front and rear circuits separately and complete one before moving to the other.

Finishing the Job Correctly

Once the fluid runs clean and bubble-free, top the reservoir to the correct level marking with fresh fluid. Reinstall the diaphragm and cap, making sure the diaphragm is seated properly. Wipe down the caliper, bleeder, and reservoir area with a clean rag, then rinse away any fluid that touched paint or plastic. Check the bleeder valve and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for leaks. After a few firm applications, the fittings should stay dry. If you see weeping fluid, stop and correct it before riding.

Testing Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy. Hold steady pressure on each for several seconds; neither should slowly sink. Spin the front and rear wheels to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then test at low speed in a safe area, using both brakes gently before riding normally. If the lever or pedal changes feel, or if either brake pulls to one side or drags, do not ride the bike until the problem is resolved.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, or if it firms only after pumping, air is still entering or trapped somewhere. Persistent bubbles, fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, or a lever that slowly sinks under steady pressure all point to a problem that needs attention. On this ABS-equipped Scrambler, a standard caliper bleed is fine for routine fluid refresh, but if the reservoir ran dry, the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, or you suspect air has entered the ABS unit itself, the system may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. In those cases, stop and have the bike serviced by a qualified shop.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.