How To Bleed 2016 Ducati Scrambler Flat Track Pro Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2016 Ducati Scrambler Flat Track Pro

What This Job Covers on the Flat Track Pro

The 2016 Ducati Scrambler Flat Track Pro is fitted with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and ABS. The front lever and rear pedal each operate a sealed hydraulic circuit, and both circuits can be refreshed through the caliper bleeder valves. This article covers a standard caliper-level bleed—replacing old fluid and removing air that has collected at the calipers or in the lines. It does not cover opening the ABS hydraulic unit. If the reservoir has run dry, if the ABS unit or its lines have been disconnected, or if you suspect air is trapped inside the ABS unit, the bike should go to a shop for a bleed with the appropriate equipment. If your bike has more than one front caliper, treat each caliper as a separate bleed point and do them one at a time.

When a Brake Bleed Is Due

A spongy or soft lever, a lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a pedal that feels vague are the classic signs that air is in the system. Dark or cloudy fluid in the reservoir is another reason to flush. A bleed is also needed after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can lead to brake fade under hard use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule for that reason alone.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

• Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
• A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
• A catch bottle for the old fluid
• Rags or shop towels
• A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
• A screwdriver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but neither is required.

Preparing the Bike and Protecting the Finish

Support the bike securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted surfaces, plastic panels, and the instrument area with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

1. With the bike stable and the front reservoir level, remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir, but do not let the reservoir run dry.
2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Keep the container sealed when you are not pouring from it.
3. Attach the clear tubing to the front caliper bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be drawn in around it.
4. Squeeze and hold the front brake lever. Keep steady pressure on it.
5. Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will flow through the tubing. Watch the tube, not the reservoir, while the valve is open.
6. Close the bleeder valve before you release the lever. Releasing the lever with the bleeder open can pull air back into the system.
7. Release the lever slowly, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence. Check the reservoir often and top it off so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
8. Continue until fresh, clean fluid with no bubbles comes through the tubing. If your bike has more than one front caliper, bleed each caliper in turn; as a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
9. For the rear brake, attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder and route it into the catch bottle. Press and hold the rear pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, close it before releasing the pedal, and repeat until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free. Keep the rear master cylinder reservoir topped off throughout.
10. When the fluid at both ends is clean and free of bubbles, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. A bleeder that is too tight can be damaged; a bleeder that is too loose will leak.

Finishing the Job

Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, then reinstall the diaphragm and cap. Clean any spilled fluid from the calipers, lines, and reservoir area. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings where the lines attach. A dry fitting after several lever or pedal applications is what you want to see; a wet fitting needs attention before you ride.

Testing Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If either brake feels different from what you expect, stop and investigate rather than assuming it will improve on the road.

Troubleshooting and When to See a Shop

If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms up only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid is leaking from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the system inspected. The same applies if air may have entered the ABS unit, if the reservoir ran dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected. Those situations can require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, and a standard caliper bleed may not be enough to restore a firm, safe brake feel.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.