How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2015 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle
Shop parts for a 2015 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle Motorcycle.The 2015 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle is fitted with hydraulic disc brakes at both wheels and ABS. The front lever and rear pedal each work a separate hydraulic circuit, and the ABS modulator sits within those circuits. A normal caliper bleed is still the right way to refresh fluid and remove air that has collected at the calipers, but if the reservoir has run dry or the ABS unit or its lines have been opened, air may be trapped where a hand bleed cannot reach it. In that case, plan on a shop with the correct diagnostic equipment. This guide walks through a front and rear bleed on the Full Throttle.
Why and When to Bleed
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, even in a sealed system. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point and makes fade more likely during hard or repeated braking. It also darkens the fluid and can leave deposits. A soft or spongy lever, a lever that pulls closer to the grip than it used to, a pedal that feels long, or dark fluid in the reservoir are all signs that fresh fluid and a bleed are due. Bleed after replacing lines, servicing a caliper, replacing a master cylinder, or any job that opened the hydraulic system. Many riders also refresh fluid on a regular interval as preventive maintenance, even when the brakes still feel normal.
Tools and Supplies
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
- Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder
- A catch bottle for used fluid
- Rags or shop towels
- A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
- A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier
Preparation and Paint Protection
Support the 2015 Scrambler Full Throttle securely upright on a stand. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover the painted surfaces, plastic covers, and instrument area with rags, because brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact. Wipe up any spill immediately and rinse the area with water. Work with the reservoir cap off only while you are actively bleeding, and keep the area clean so dirt does not fall into the fluid.
Bleeding the Front Brake
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir without letting the level drop low enough to draw air into the master cylinder.
- Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Leave enough room to install the diaphragm later, but keep the level well above the minimum while bleeding.
- Fit the clear tubing over the front caliper bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle. Keep the bottle below the caliper so fluid and air flow away from the bleeder.
- Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it against the grip. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. You should see fluid and possibly air bubbles move through the tubing.
- Close the bleeder before releasing the lever. Releasing the lever with the bleeder open can pull air back into the caliper.
- Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence. Check the reservoir after every few strokes and top it off with fresh fluid before it gets low.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tubing is clean and free of bubbles, and the lever feels firm. If the front circuit has more than one caliper, bleed each caliper separately and start with the one farthest from the master cylinder.
- When the front is done, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it. Snug is enough to seal the bleeder without damaging the caliper.
Bleeding the Rear Brake
The rear brake on this model is also hydraulic, so it needs the same treatment. Keep the reservoir level, attach the clear tubing to the rear caliper bleeder, and route it to the catch bottle. Press and hold the rear pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal. Repeat until the fluid is clean and bubble-free and the pedal feels firm. Top off the rear reservoir as you go. If the rear reservoir is remote or tucked under bodywork, make sure it stays level and accessible before you start. As with the front, close the bleeder snugly when finished.
Finishing and Testing
Fill each reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the calipers, lines, and bodywork. Check the bleeder and banjo fittings for leaks. The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Before riding normally, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
Troubleshooting and When to Stop
If the lever or pedal will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid leaks from the master cylinder or caliper, stop and diagnose the problem. A lever that never becomes firm can mean air is still trapped, a seal is failing, or the ABS unit has air in it. Because this Full Throttle has ABS, any situation where the reservoir ran dry, the ABS unit was disturbed, or the lines were disconnected may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Do not keep pumping and hoping; have the bike inspected before riding.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
