How to Bleed the Brakes on a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800
Shop parts for a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.Know Your Rivale's Brake Layout First
The 2014 Rivale 800 stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and the system includes an ABS unit. That matters for how you approach this job. Because both the front lever and the rear pedal push fluid through hydraulic circuits, both ends get bled. The front brake is a lever-operated circuit on the right handlebar, and the rear is a pedal-operated circuit on the right footpeg — the two are independent on this machine, so there is no combined or linked function to sequence around. You simply bleed one circuit, then the other.
The ABS unit deserves a word of caution before you pick up a wrench. A routine flush that pushes fresh fluid down through the caliper bleeders is the normal way to refresh the system, and that is what this article covers. But if the reservoir has ever run dry, or if the ABS unit or its lines have been disconnected, air can be trapped inside the unit itself. That air will not come out through the caliper bleeders no matter how long you pump. If you suspect that has happened, stop and take the bike to a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
Why and When a Bleed Is Due
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a boiling fluid creates vapor — which behaves exactly like air in the lines. The practical result is a lever that feels soft or spongy, or one that travels closer to the grip than it used to. A pedal that sinks under steady pressure is the same story at the rear.
Look at the fluid in the reservoir sight glass or under the cap. Fresh fluid is clear; fluid that has gone dark, cloudy, or murky is past its useful life. Beyond symptoms, many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval as preventive maintenance, because brake fade under hard use is not something you want to discover mid-corner. Any job that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work — also demands a bleed afterward.
Tools and Supplies to Have on the Bench
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple.
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid.
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but helpful: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, which makes a solo job far less fiddly.
Staging the Bike and Protecting the Finish
Get the Rivale upright and stable on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. Turn the handlebar until the front reservoir sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill the moment you open it. Then drape rags over the tank, the fairing panels, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir.
This step is not optional. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact. If a drop lands where it shouldn't, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until you finish.
The Bleeding Procedure
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, leaving the bottom covered. Never let the reservoir run dry.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so you can see the fluid moving through the tube.
- Squeeze the lever (or press the pedal) and hold it. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper.
- Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle until the fluid coming through the tube runs clean and free of bubbles.
- Check the reservoir level after every few cycles and top it off. Running it low is the single most common way a home bleed introduces new air.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn rather than trying to do both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest.
- Move to the rear circuit and repeat the same sequence at the rear caliper bleeder with the pedal.
Buttoning Everything Back Up
When clean fluid is flowing at both ends, close the bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — do not lean on it, because overtightening can damage the valve seat. Fill the reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the calipers and master cylinder for any weeping or dampness.
Testing Before You Ride
Pull the front lever and press the rear pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.
When to Hand It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several honest attempts, if it only firms up after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how much fluid you push through, or if you find fluid leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop. Those symptoms point to a problem a bleed will not solve — and on an ABS-equipped Rivale, any suspicion that air reached the ABS unit is a job for a dealer.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2014 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.