Bleeding the Brakes on a 2014 Honda NC700X DCT ABS
Shop parts for a 2014 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
What This Job Covers on Your NC700X DCT ABS
The 2014 Honda NC700X DCT ABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and the ABS badge means an ABS modulator sits in the hydraulic circuit between the master cylinders and the calipers. That changes how you should think about a brake bleed. For routine fluid replacement and normal lever or pedal feel, you can bleed through the caliper bleeder valves with the same lever-and-pedal method used on many hydraulic motorcycle brakes. If the reservoir has run dry, a line has been opened, or the ABS unit has been disturbed, air may be trapped in the modulator itself. That is not a normal garage bleed, and the bike should go to a shop with the correct equipment and procedure.
This article covers both the front brake and the rear brake because both are hydraulic on this model. It does not cover the DCT clutch or any mechanical adjustment. Work slowly, keep the reservoir from running dry, and treat every drop of brake fluid as paint damage waiting to happen.
When a Bleed Is Due
A spongy lever or a rear pedal that feels soft and long is the classic sign that air or old fluid is affecting the system. A front lever that now pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or a pedal that sinks slowly under steady pressure, also points to a bleed. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid in the reservoir is another reason to refresh the system. Any job that opened the hydraulic circuit—new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work—should be followed by a proper bleed before the bike is ridden.
Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. Moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can lead to brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule for that reason alone. On an ABS-equipped bike like this NC700X DCT ABS, a routine bleed is still a caliper-level job, but air that has traveled into the ABS hardware is a different problem and should not be guessed at.
Tools and Supplies to Stage First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve.
- A length of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder.
- A catch bottle for the old fluid.
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir.
- The correct screwdriver or driver for the reservoir cap screws.
A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when you are working alone, but the manual lever-and-pedal method is enough if you pay attention. Keep the catch bottle below the caliper so gravity helps, and make sure the tubing is tight enough that air cannot sneak in around the bleeder threads.
Prepare the Bike and Protect the Finish
Support the NC700X securely upright on a stand. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it; a tilted reservoir can spill fluid as soon as the cap comes off. Cover painted surfaces, plastic panels, and the instrument area with rags. Most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact, so wipe up any spill immediately and rinse the area with water.
Open the front reservoir, remove the diaphragm, and use the syringe or turkey baster to take out most of the old fluid. Leave enough fluid in the bottom that you do not push air into the master cylinder. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container before you begin bleeding. Check the reservoir after every few strokes and keep it topped off throughout the job.
Bleed the Front Brake
- Fit the clear tubing over the front brake bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle. Position the box-end wrench on the bleeder.
- Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it against the grip. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will move out through the tubing.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open can pull air back into the caliper.
- Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence. Top off the reservoir as the level drops.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tubing is clean and free of bubbles and the lever feels firm. If your bike has more than one front caliper, bleed each one in turn; on a conventional system, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.
- Finish by tightening the bleeder snugly without overtightening, then refill the reservoir to the correct level marking.
Bleed the Rear Brake
- Locate the rear reservoir and remove most of the old fluid, then refill with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap.
- Attach the clear tubing to the rear brake bleeder valve and route it to the catch bottle.
- Press the rear pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal.
- Repeat until the fluid is clean and bubble-free and the pedal feels firm. Keep the rear reservoir topped off after every few strokes.
- Tighten the bleeder snugly, fill the reservoir to the correct level, and reinstall the diaphragm and cap.
Finish, Test, and Know When to Stop
After both circuits are bled, clean any spilled fluid from the calipers, reservoir area, and floor. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings where the brake lines attach. Reinstall the reservoir diaphragm and cap carefully so the diaphragm is not pinched.
Before riding, the front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and neither should slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally.
If the lever will not firm up after several attempts, if it firms only after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if fluid is leaking from a master cylinder or caliper, stop and diagnose the problem. Air that may have entered the ABS unit, or a linked or combined brake system with extra bleed points and a required sequence, is a shop-level job unless you have the exact procedure and confidence to follow it. Do not ride a bike with a brake system you are not sure about.
Related Shopping Categories
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Shop Brake Tools for a 2014 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
