Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800
Shop parts for a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
The Rivale 800 is a hydraulic disc brake motorcycle at both ends, so the job in front of you is a true fluid flush and air purge rather than a cable adjustment. Before you pick up a wrench, take a minute to confirm what your particular bike carries. Many Rivale 800s left the factory with an anti-lock braking system, and the easiest way to tell is to look for a toothed ring and a small sensor at each wheel, plus an ABS warning light that cycles when you turn the key. If your bike has that hardware, read the ABS notes below carefully, because they change what you should and should not attempt at home. The Rivale does not use a linked or combined braking system, so the front lever works the front brake and the rear pedal works the rear brake independently.
Why Brake Fluid Goes Bad and When to Replace It
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time, even through sealed rubber components. That absorbed water does two harmful things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can generate vapor in the lines and give you a lever that goes soft exactly when you need it most, and it corrodes the internals of the master cylinder and calipers from the inside. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval whether or not anything feels wrong.
On top of scheduled maintenance, bleed the system any time the lever or pedal feels spongy, when the lever travels closer to the grip than it used to, when the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy instead of clear, or after any work that opened the hydraulic circuit — new lines, caliper service, or master cylinder repairs. Those jobs are the most common reason air ends up where it should not be.
Tools and Supplies to Have Ready
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, poured from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different specification.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder.
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to hang it in.
- Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but genuinely helpful for solo work: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.
Setting Up the Bike Safely
Get the Rivale 800 upright and stable on a stand before you touch anything. For the front circuit, turn the handlebar so the reservoir on the master cylinder sits level; a tilted reservoir will spill fluid the moment the cap comes off. Lay rags over the tank, the fairing panels, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir, because brake fluid attacks paint and most plastics on contact. If a drop does land on a painted surface, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until you finish.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
Work through the front brake first, then repeat the same sequence on the rear if you are flushing both. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed them one at a time, starting with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then move to the closer one.
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little in the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, making sure the tube runs upward before it drops, so you can watch bubbles travel.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm against the grip. For the rear, press and hold the pedal.
- With the lever or pedal held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder fully before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first will suck air back in through the bleeder threads.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly and let it return.
- Check the reservoir level and top it off. Never let it run low enough to draw air into the master cylinder — that is the single most common way a simple flush turns into a long afternoon.
- Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh, and completely free of bubbles.
- Move to the second front caliper if your bike has one, then repeat the entire sequence at the rear caliper if you are flushing the rear circuit.
Finishing Up and Checking Your Work
Once clean fluid is flowing at every bleeder, close each valve snugly. Snug is the goal — firm enough to seal, not so tight that you crush the seat or strip the threads. Fill the reservoir to the level marking molded into the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for any weeping or dampness. A dry fitting after a few minutes of pressure is what you want to see.
Testing Before You Ride, and When to Stop and Call a Shop
With the bike still on the stand, squeeze the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then take the bike to a safe, empty area and test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.
If the lever refuses to firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms up when you pump it, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, or if you find fluid leaking from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. And if your Rivale 800 is ABS-equipped and the reservoir ever ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may be trapped inside the ABS module itself. That requires a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, so the bike should go to a shop rather than being bled further in the garage.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
