Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda VFR1200F

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda VFR1200F Motorcycle.

Confirm What Your VFR1200F Is Working With

The 2013 Honda VFR1200F uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so this job covers the front lever circuit and the rear pedal circuit. Before you touch anything, take a close look at your own machine, because this model was offered in more than one brake configuration. Some VFR1200F examples were delivered with an anti-lock system, and certain versions of this bike use a combined layout in which the front lever and the rear pedal each influence more than one caliper. If your bike carries an ABS badge, an ABS indicator lamp on the dash, or a modulator unit with additional hard lines, treat it as an ABS-equipped machine. If you are not sure, look for wheel speed sensors at the hubs and extra plumbing near the calipers.

That distinction matters. On a plain hydraulic system, a caliper-by-caliper bleed is a complete job. On an ABS or combined system, the same caliper bleed still works well for a routine fluid refresh, but the internal passages in the modulator are not fully swept by hand pressure alone. If your bike has two front calipers, plan to bleed each one in turn rather than assuming one is enough.

Why and When the Fluid Needs to Go

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid’s boiling point, and a fluid that boils under hard braking creates vapor in the lines — which feels exactly like air and gives you a lever that goes soft just when you need it most. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong.

Bleed the brakes if the lever or pedal feels spongy, if the lever now travels closer to the grip than it used to, if the fluid in the reservoir looks dark, cloudy, or gritty, or if the level has dropped noticeably. You also need a bleed after any work that opened the hydraulic system: new lines, a caliper rebuild or replacement, master cylinder service, or a line that was disconnected for any reason. A lever that slowly sinks while you hold steady pressure is another clear signal that something needs attention.

Tools and Supplies to Have on the Bench

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container that has not been sitting open
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips the flats far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round the bleeder
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, long enough to reach your catch bottle
  • A clear catch bottle so you can watch the fluid and any bubbles coming through
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder is not required, but either one makes a solo bleed considerably less fiddly, since you are not relying on a helper to work the lever in time with your wrench.

Setting Up Without Damaging the Bike

Get the motorcycle held securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level, because an angled reservoir will spill fluid the moment you open the cap. Then drape rags over the tank or bodywork, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so a spill that sits for a minute can leave a permanent mark. If a drop does land somewhere it should not, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water.

The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step

  1. Open the reservoir cap and lift out the diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but leave enough in the bottom that you are not exposing the port to air.
  2. Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
  3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube end stays submerged.
  4. If your bike has two front calipers, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, then move to the closer one. On the rear, work at the rear caliper bleeder.
  5. Squeeze and hold the lever, or press and hold the pedal, and keep it held.
  6. With pressure still applied, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will push out through the tube.
  7. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first draws air back in through the open valve, which undoes the work you just did.
  8. Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle until clean, fresh fluid with no bubbles comes through the tube. Watch the reservoir level the whole time and top it off between cycles — if it runs dry, you pull air into the system and start over.
  9. Move to the next caliper and repeat, then do the same sequence at the rear pedal if your bike has a hydraulic rear brake.

Closing Everything Out

When the fluid runs clear and bubble-free, tighten the bleeder snugly. It needs to seal, not to be cranked down hard — overtightening can damage the seat and cause a leak. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then check the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for any weeping or dampness.

Testing Before You Ride

The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, and should hold that feel when you squeeze or press and hold for several seconds. A lever that firms up only after a few pumps, or that slowly sinks, means there is still air or a leak. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

If the lever will not firm up after several honest attempts, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. The same applies if the reservoir ever ran dry, if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, or if your VFR1200F has the combined system and you are not confident about the required sequence — those systems have more bleed points and a specific order, and getting it wrong leaves air trapped where a hand bleed cannot reach it. A shop with the right diagnostic tool can cycle the ABS unit and finish the job properly.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda VFR1200F Motorcycle.

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Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda VFR1200F Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda VFR1200F Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda VFR1200F Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.