Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT Motorcycle.

The 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and it is equipped with a combined ABS system. That matters before you start: a routine caliper-level bleed to refresh fluid and remove air from the lines is a reasonable DIY job, but the combined ABS hardware adds hydraulic paths and bleed points that are not present on a simple non-ABS bike. If air has entered the ABS unit itself, or if the system has been opened beyond a normal caliper bleed, the bike may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. This guide covers the normal front and rear hydraulic bleed and tells you when to stop and hand the job to a shop.

When a Bleed Is Due

Bleed the brakes when the front lever or rear pedal feels spongy, when the lever pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or when the fluid in either reservoir looks dark or cloudy. A bleed is also due after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can contribute to brake fade under hard use, so many riders refresh it on a regular schedule. On this VFR1200DCT, treat the front and rear circuits as separate service points even though the combined ABS system links their operation.

Tools and Supplies for the Job

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve
  • A catch bottle for used fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier

Do not substitute an open container of fluid that has been sitting around. Use fresh fluid, and keep the container capped when you are not pouring. The fluid type is not something to guess on this bike; read the reservoir cap and use exactly what is marked there.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish

Support the 2013 VFR1200DCT securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever and pedal. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you open it. Cover painted bodywork, plastic panels, the instrument area, and any nearby surfaces with rags, because most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and set them aside where they will not pick up grit.

Bleeding the Front and Rear Hydraulic Circuits

Work on one circuit at a time, and keep the reservoir topped off throughout. Because this bike has a combined ABS system, there may be additional bleed points beyond the caliper bleeders. The steps below describe a normal caliper-level bleed; if you are not confident about the required sequence for every point on the combined system, have a shop perform the bleed rather than guessing.

  1. Open the reservoir for the circuit you are bleeding and use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
  2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap, leaving room for the diaphragm and cap later.
  3. Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle so you can watch the fluid and bubbles.
  4. If you are bleeding the front, squeeze and hold the lever. If you are bleeding the rear, press and hold the pedal. Keep steady pressure on it.
  5. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn and let fluid and air escape through the tube. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal.
  6. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean fluid comes through the tube with no bubbles. Check the reservoir often and top it off before it gets low.
  7. Bleed the front caliper or calipers one at a time. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, then move to the other if the bike has more than one front caliper.
  8. Move to the rear circuit and repeat the same process at the rear bleeder, keeping the rear reservoir from running dry.
  9. When clean fluid and no bubbles are confirmed at each point, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it.
  10. Refill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid.

Finishing the Bleed and Checking for Leaks

After the reservoir is capped, check the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for weeping or wetness. A dry shop towel wiped around each fitting should stay clean. If you see fluid at a fitting, do not ride the bike until it is corrected. Tighten bleeders snugly, but do not force them; overtightening can damage the seat. Clean the area again so any new leak is easy to spot.

Test Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel and confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If the lever or pedal changes feel after the test, stop and investigate before going back out on the road.

If the Lever or Pedal Will Not Firm Up

A lever that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, a lever that firms only after pumping, persistent air bubbles, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper are reasons to stop. On this combined ABS VFR1200DCT, any situation where the reservoir ran dry, the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, or air may have entered the ABS hardware should go to a shop. The same applies if you are unsure of the extra bleed points and sequence for the combined system. A correct bleed is not a place to guess.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda VFR1200DCT Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.