Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda NC700X DCT ABS

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda NC700X DCT ABS Motorcycle.

The 2013 Honda NC700X DCT ABS is equipped with hydraulic disc brakes at both ends and an anti-lock braking system. The front lever and rear pedal each operate their own hydraulic circuit, so a routine fluid refresh and air bleed is done at the caliper bleeder valves. For most DIY riders, that is a straightforward job with basic hand tools. The important exception is air that has entered the ABS unit itself; that is not a normal caliper bleed and should go to a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment. This guide covers the normal service: replacing old fluid and removing air from the front and rear hydraulic circuits.

When a Bleed Is Due—and Why It Matters

Bleed the brakes when the front lever feels spongy or pulls closer to the grip than it used to, when the rear pedal feels soft or has more travel than normal, or when the fluid in either reservoir looks dark, cloudy, or contaminated. A bleed is also due after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work. Even without symptoms, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid’s boiling point, which can cause brake fade under hard or repeated use. Many riders refresh the fluid on a regular schedule as preventive maintenance rather than waiting for a soft lever.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve
  • Clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder valve
  • A catch bottle for used fluid
  • Rags or shop towels
  • A syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws

A one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder can make the job easier when working alone, but neither is required. Have enough fresh fluid on hand to keep the reservoir topped off throughout the procedure.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish

Support the NC700X securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars so the front master cylinder reservoir sits level before you open it. For the rear circuit, confirm the rear reservoir is also level. Cover painted surfaces, plastic bodywork, and the instrument area with rags before opening any reservoir. Most brake fluids damage paint and plastic on contact, so wipe up spills immediately and rinse the area with water if fluid reaches a painted or plastic surface.

Step-by-Step Bleeding Procedure

  1. Open the reservoir for the circuit you are bleeding and use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
  2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid of the type marked on the cap. Leave the cap off or loosely in place so you can top off as you work.
  3. Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve on the caliper and route the other end into the catch bottle. Make sure the tubing fits snugly so air cannot be drawn in around it.
  4. For the front brake, squeeze and hold the lever. For the rear brake, press and hold the pedal. Keep steady pressure on it.
  5. Open the bleeder valve about a quarter turn to let fluid and air escape through the tubing. Close the bleeder before releasing the lever or pedal. Releasing first can draw air back into the system.
  6. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean fluid with no bubbles comes through the tubing. Check the reservoir often and top it off so it never runs low enough to draw air in.
  7. Work on one caliper at a time. Within each circuit, start at the caliper farthest from its master cylinder; on this bike that is the caliper end of the circuit you are servicing. Finish that caliper before moving to the other circuit.
  8. When the fluid runs clean and bubble-free, close the bleeder snugly without overtightening it. Do not use excessive force on the bleeder valve.

Finishing the Job and Checking for Leaks

Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and clean any spilled fluid from the bike. Check the bleeder valve and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for leaks. A dry shop towel wiped around each fitting will show fresh fluid quickly. If you see seepage, close the bleeder a little more if it is the bleeder, or stop and investigate the fitting before riding.

Test Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink under steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If either brake feels different from what you expect, do not ride the bike until the issue is resolved.

If the Lever or Pedal Will Not Firm Up

A lever or pedal that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, one that firms up only after pumping, persistent air bubbles in the tubing, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper are signs that the job is not complete. Stop and diagnose the problem rather than riding. Also take the bike to a shop if the reservoir ran dry, if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, or if you suspect air has entered the ABS unit. That situation may require a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool, and it is not something to guess at in a home garage.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.