Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CBR500R

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CBR500R Motorcycle.

What the CBR500R's Brake Layout Means for This Job

The 2013 CBR500R stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends. The front brake is worked by the lever on the right handlebar, and the rear by the pedal on the right footpeg bracket. Each end has its own master cylinder, reservoir, line, and caliper, and the two circuits are completely independent of one another — there is no linked or combined braking on this model, so squeezing the lever does nothing at the rear and pressing the pedal does nothing up front. That independence is good news for a home mechanic: you can bleed one end at a time, in either order, without worrying about a sequence that spans both wheels.

Some 2013 CBR500R models left the showroom with ABS, and others did not. If your bike has the ABS badge and the associated hardware, a normal bleed at the caliper bleeder is still the right way to refresh fluid and clear air from the lines and calipers. What changes is the situation where air has been pulled into the ABS unit itself — more on that near the end. If your bike has no ABS, ignore those notes entirely.

When a Bleed Is Actually Due

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture does two harmful things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can generate vapor in the caliper and give you a long, soft lever right when you need the brake most, and it corrodes the internals of the master cylinder and caliper. That is why many riders flush the system on a regular interval even when nothing feels wrong.

On top of the calendar, bleed the brakes on your CBR500R whenever you notice any of the following:

  • A lever or pedal that feels spongy, vague, or softer than it used to.
  • A front lever that now comes noticeably closer to the grip before the brake bites.
  • Fluid in either reservoir that looks dark, cloudy, or contaminated with debris.
  • Any recent work that opened the hydraulic system — new lines, a caliper rebuild, master cylinder service, or a banjo fitting that was loosened.
  • A lever that firms up when you pump it but goes soft again after sitting.

Tools and Supplies to Collect First

Have everything within arm's reach before you open a reservoir, because once the cap is off you do not want to walk away from an open hydraulic system.

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different specification, and do not use a bottle that has been open on the shelf for months.
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly. A box-end grips all the way around the hex and is far less likely to round it off than an open-end.
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to hang it in.
  • Rags or shop towels, and a spray bottle of plain water for rinsing spills.
  • A syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
  • Optional but genuinely helpful for a solo job: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.

Setting Up Before You Open Anything

Get the bike secure and upright on a stand or lift so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir on the master cylinder sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill fluid the moment the cap comes off. Drape rags over the tank, the front cowl, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir. Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so treat every drop as a problem: wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until you are finished.

The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step

  1. Clean the top of the reservoir with a rag so grit cannot fall in, then remove the cap and the rubber diaphragm beneath it.
  2. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave enough at the bottom that you are not pulling air into the master cylinder port.
  3. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, up near the full mark.
  4. Fit the clear tubing over the bleeder valve on the caliper and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tubing runs upward from the bleeder before dropping — that keeps air from tracking back.
  5. Squeeze the front lever and hold it firmly. Do not release it yet.
  6. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tubing. Watch the tube, not your hands.
  7. Close the bleeder snugly before you release the lever. Releasing first draws air back in through the bleeder threads, which is the single most common reason a home bleed fails.
  8. Release the lever, then repeat the squeeze–open–close–release cycle. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it off. Never let it run low enough to gulp air.
  9. Keep going until the fluid arriving in the tube is clean, bright, and free of bubbles, and the lever feels firm rather than springy.
  10. Move to the rear brake and repeat the same cycle with the pedal, using the rear caliper's bleeder. If your bike happens to carry two front calipers, bleed them one at a time, starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder in terms of line routing, then finish with the closer one.

Closing Up and Confirming the Result

Give the bleeder a final snug tighten — firm, not brutal, since the bleeder body is small and easy to damage. Fill the reservoir to the level marking molded into the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Look closely at the bleeder and at the banjo fittings at both the master cylinder and caliper for any weeping, then squeeze the lever hard and hold it while you check again.

Spin each wheel by hand: it should turn freely with a faint pad rub at most. A wheel that stops quickly or feels tight means the brake is dragging and needs attention before you ride.

Road Test, and When to Stop and Call a Shop

With the bike upright and the reservoir capped, roll to a stop in a safe, empty area and apply each brake separately at low speed. The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, and should hold steady under a long, hard squeeze rather than slowly sinking toward the grip. Only after that check should you ride normally.

Some problems are not solvable at the bleeder. If the lever will not firm up after several honest attempts, if it only firms after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the system inspected. And if your CBR500R is an ABS model and the reservoir ever ran dry, or the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, air may be trapped inside the modulator where a caliper bleed cannot reach it — that job needs dealer-level equipment, so let a shop handle it.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CBR500R Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.