Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CBR1000RR

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CBR1000RR Motorcycle.

How This Bike's Brake System Is Configured

The 2013 CBR1000RR stops on hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, which means the front lever on the right handlebar and the rear pedal on the right footpeg each push fluid through lines to a caliper. Because both circuits are hydraulic, both can be bled using the same basic method, and this article covers the front and the rear. Up front, the CBR1000RR runs a pair of discs with a caliper on each side of the wheel, so there are two calipers to service on the front circuit. Honda also offered this model year with an optional ABS package, so confirm what is actually bolted to your bike before you begin. An ABS indicator on the dash and a modulator block with extra hard lines near the frame are the giveaways. If your machine is ABS-equipped, a routine bleed at the calipers is still the correct way to refresh fluid, but air that has worked its way into the ABS unit itself is a job for a dealer with the right diagnostic equipment.

Why and When to Bleed the Brakes

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a fluid that boils under hard braking creates vapor in the lines — which is exactly what a spongy lever feels like. Even on a bike that is ridden gently, moisture and contamination build up, so many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval whether or not anything feels wrong.

Bleed the system when the lever or pedal feels soft or mushy, when the lever comes back closer to the grip than it used to, when the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy instead of clear, or after any work that opened the hydraulic circuit. New lines, a caliper rebuild, a master cylinder service, or a line that was disconnected all introduce air that has to come out before the bike is safe to ride.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — once a bottle is opened, it starts absorbing moisture
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly; a box-end grips better than an open-end and is less likely to round the hex
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a catch bottle to hang it in
  • A syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
  • The correct driver or screwdriver for the reservoir cap screws
  • Rags or shop towels, and water for rinsing spills
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job much easier

Setting Up Before You Open Anything

Get the bike on a stand so it is upright and stable, and turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level — a reservoir that is tilted will spill the moment the cap comes off. Drape rags over the tank, the upper fairing, the dash, and the front fender. Brake fluid attacks paint and clear plastic on contact, so treat every drop as something to wipe up immediately and rinse with water. Work in a well-ventilated space with the bike cool, and keep the fluid bottle capped between pours.

Bleeding the Front Brake

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and the diaphragm, then use the syringe to draw most of the old fluid out. Leave a little at the bottom so you do not push air into the master cylinder.
  2. Top the reservoir with fresh fluid and keep it near full for the rest of the job.
  3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube runs upward before it drops — that traps air at the top and lets you see bubbles clearly.
  4. Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, then move to the other one. Bleed one caliper completely before switching.
  5. Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm. Do not release it yet.
  6. Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube.
  7. Close the bleeder before you let the lever go. Releasing with the valve open pulls air straight back into the caliper.
  8. Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles.
  9. Check the reservoir level every few cycles and top it off. If it ever runs dry, you have just introduced a large slug of air and will need to start over.
  10. Move to the second front caliper and repeat the same sequence.

Bleeding the Rear Brake

  1. Locate the rear master cylinder reservoir and the rear caliper bleeder, and confirm the reservoir is clean and full of fresh fluid.
  2. Fit the tubing and catch bottle to the rear bleeder the same way.
  3. Press and hold the brake pedal, crack the bleeder a quarter turn, then close it before releasing the pedal.
  4. Continue until the fluid runs clear and bubble-free, topping the reservoir as you go.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

When the fluid runs clean at every bleeder, close each valve snugly — firm enough to seal, but not so hard that you crush the seat or strip the hex. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then look closely at each bleeder and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and calipers for weeping or dampness. A bleeder that seeps after the job is not fully seated.

Testing Before You Ride, and When to Stop

Pump the lever and pedal a few times. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure on it. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then ride at low speed in a safe, empty area and apply the brakes gently before trusting them at road speed.

If the lever will not firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only gets firm when you pump it, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. The same applies if the reservoir ran dry on an ABS-equipped bike, or if your machine has the combined ABS system with its additional bleed points and required sequence — those systems are best left to a shop with the correct procedure.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.