Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS
Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS Motorcycle.
What You Are Working With on This Bike
The 2013 CB500X ABS uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and both circuits are fed from their own master cylinder — a handlebar-mounted reservoir up front and a pedal-actuated reservoir tucked into the right side of the bike for the rear. Because the model carries the ABS designation, the bike also has an anti-lock module plumbed into the system. That module matters later in this job, but for a normal fluid refresh it does not change the basic procedure: you still bleed at the caliper, one circuit at a time.
Honda fitted this model with a single front caliper, so you will be working one front bleeder and one rear bleeder. If you ever find yourself on a variant with two front calipers, the same steps apply — you simply repeat them for each caliper in turn. The two circuits are independent, so treat the front and rear as two separate jobs and finish one completely before starting the other.
When a Bleed Is Actually Due
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture does two things: it darkens the fluid, and it drops the boiling point, which is exactly what you do not want during a hard stop from highway speed or a long descent with a loaded bike. A soft, spongy lever or a rear pedal that travels further than it used to is the classic symptom of air or degraded fluid. A lever that creeps toward the grip while you hold steady pressure is another warning sign.
Beyond feel, look at the fluid itself. Pop the reservoir cap and check the color — fresh fluid is nearly clear, and old fluid goes amber, then dark and cloudy. Many riders simply refresh both circuits on a regular interval regardless of symptoms, which is cheap insurance. You should also bleed after any work that opened the hydraulic system: new lines, a caliper rebuild, master cylinder service, or a reservoir that ran dry.
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — once a bottle is opened, it starts absorbing moisture, so use new stock
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly; a box-end grips better than an open-end and is less likely to round the hex
- A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
- A small catch bottle to hang the tubing into
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job much less fiddly
Setting Up Without Damaging Anything
Get the bike on a stand so it sits upright and stable, because a tipped bike with an open reservoir is a mess waiting to happen. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir sits level — on the CB500X that usually means a slight turn to the right. Drape rags over the tank, the plastics around the bars, and the instrument cluster. Brake fluid attacks paint and clear plastic on contact, so any drip should be wiped immediately and the area flushed with water.
Before you open anything, crack the bleeder valve loose a quarter turn and then re-snug it. Doing this while the system is still sealed means you are not fighting a stuck bleeder with an open reservoir above it.
The Bleeding Procedure
- Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, but leave enough at the bottom that you do not expose the port.
- Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from your sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder nipple and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tubing runs upward slightly before dropping — this helps you see bubbles.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it firm. For the rear, press and hold the pedal.
- With pressure held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will push out through the tubing. Watch the reservoir level as you do this.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper, which is the single most common mistake in this job.
- Release, then repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close cycle. Keep topping the reservoir off between cycles so it never drops low enough to pull air in at the master cylinder.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tubing is clean and free of bubbles, then do a few more cycles for good measure.
- Move to the other circuit and repeat the whole process with its own reservoir and bleeder.
If you are ever working on a bike with two front calipers, bleed them one at a time and start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then finish with the closer one.
Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks
Snug the bleeder down firmly — snug, not gorilla-tight, since the caliper body is aluminum and the bleeder is small. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down everything you touched. Then inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the caliper and master cylinder for weeping. A dry paper towel pressed against each joint tells you quickly whether anything is seeping.
Testing Before You Ride
With the bike still on the stand, squeeze the lever and hold it. It should feel firm and consistent, and it should not slowly sink. Do the same with the rear pedal. Spin each wheel by hand and confirm the brake is not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, apply each brake gently and build up from there before riding normally.
When This Job Belongs at a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, stop and reassess. Fluid weeping from the master cylinder or caliper means a seal issue that bleeding will not fix. And on this ABS-equipped bike, if the reservoir ever ran dry, or if the ABS module or its lines were disconnected, air may be trapped inside the module itself. That requires a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool to cycle the pump and purge it. Hand the bike to a shop in that case rather than guessing.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CB500X ABS Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
