Bleeding the Brakes on a 2013 Honda CB500F

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda CB500F Motorcycle.

Confirm the Layout Before You Touch Anything

The 2013 CB500F is a hydraulic disc brake motorcycle at both ends. The front brake is fed by a master cylinder on the right handlebar and applied with the lever; the rear is fed by its own master cylinder and applied with the pedal on the right side. That means both circuits can be bled at home with hand tools, and both should be refreshed if you are doing a full fluid service. Some 2013 CB500F models left the showroom with ABS, and some did not. Take a look at your own bike before you start: an ABS-equipped machine will have the telltale sensor rings and wheel speed sensors at the hubs, along with the ABS modulator tucked into the bodywork. If your bike has no such hardware, treat it as a conventional non-ABS system.

That distinction matters. On a non-ABS CB500F, a normal bleed at the caliper bleeders is the whole job. On an ABS-equipped bike, the same caliper-level bleed is still the right way to refresh fluid and clear air from the lines and calipers — but if air has made its way into the ABS modulator itself, the standard procedure will not push it out. That happens when the reservoir runs dry mid-bleed, when a line is disconnected, or when the modulator is removed or replaced. In those cases the bike needs a dealer-level procedure or a diagnostic tool to cycle the pump, and it should go to a shop.

Why and When to Bleed

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. Moisture does two bad things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can boil the fluid and give you a spongy, fading lever, and it corrodes the internals of the master cylinder and calipers. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a schedule even when nothing feels wrong.

Bleed immediately if the lever or pedal feels soft or spongy, if the lever now comes closer to the grip than it used to, if the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or if you have just opened the hydraulic system — new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or a fluid top-off that let air in. A lever that firms up only after several pumps is a classic air-in-the-system symptom.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on your master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips better than an open-end and is less likely to round the hex.
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple, plus a small catch bottle to hang it in.
  • Rags or shop towels, and a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
  • The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
  • Optional but helpful for solo work: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.

Set Up the Bike and Protect the Paint

Get the CB500F securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars so the reservoir on the bar sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill. Drape rags over the tank area, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir, because brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact. If a drop lands on a painted surface, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the cap on the reservoir until you are actually ready to open it, and keep the old fluid away from anything you care about.

The Bleeding Procedure

Work one circuit at a time, front first, then rear. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed them one at a time, starting with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder in terms of hydraulic path, then move to the closer one.

  1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir — but never let the level drop far enough to uncover the port at the bottom.
  2. Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, leaving the reservoir at the upper level line.
  3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder nipple and route the other end into the catch bottle, with the bottle positioned so the tube end stays submerged.
  4. Squeeze the lever (or press the pedal) and hold it firmly.
  5. With the lever held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not your hands.
  6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air straight back into the caliper.
  7. Release the lever slowly and repeat. Check the reservoir level every few strokes and top it off — letting it run dry is the fastest way to turn a simple bleed into a shop visit.
  8. Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh-looking, and free of bubbles, then close the bleeder snugly. Snug is enough; do not overtighten and damage the seat.

Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks

Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Look closely at the bleeder you just closed and at the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper for any weeping or wetness. A dry paper towel pressed against a fitting will show a leak that your eyes might miss.

Test Before You Ride

The lever and pedal should feel firm and consistent, and should hold pressure without slowly sinking when you squeeze and hold. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, apply each brake individually and confirm it bites normally before you ride in traffic. If the lever will not firm up after several attempts, if it only firms up after pumping, if bubbles keep appearing, or if you find fluid at the master cylinder or caliper, stop and have the system inspected — especially on an ABS-equipped bike where air may have reached the modulator.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Fluid for a 2013 Honda CB500F Motorcycle.

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Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 Honda CB500F Motorcycle.

Shop Stands for a 2013 Honda CB500F Motorcycle.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 Honda CB500F Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.